[Diy_efi] How to read turbine RPM

[Grant Beaty]

I think the compressor wheel would be a better wheel to mark, so the tach
doesn't melt :)

Grant

----- Original Message -----
From: "Andris Skulte" <skulte at skulte.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 5:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] How to read turbine RPM


> Perhaps a non-contact tachometer would work, if one of the turbine blades
> were magic markered black? I'm sure Omega has stuff like this.
>
> Andris Skulte
> Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
> www.skulte.com
>
> On Sun, 5 Jan 2003, Hugh Keir wrote:
>
> > Axel Rietschin  wrote < snip >
> >
> > " For this to work optimally you'll need to use a turbo speed sensor  "
> >
> > Would  like to know how to read turbine RPM especailly from non magnetic
> > compressor / turbine wheels.
> >
> > Can you offer any info / links on how it is done.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Hugh
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Axel Rietschin" <axel_rietschin at compuserve.com>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 05, 2003 6:17 PM
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Water metanol turbo assist - was Argon turbo
> >
> >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ohio Benz" <ohiobenz at yahoo.com>
> > >
> > > > I would suppose that the ideal condition has the H2o
> > > > vaporizing as it enters the turbine so that the full
> > > > velocity of the vaporization increases the turbine
> > > > speed - which is what the goal is.
> > >
> > > Probably, but it will be very hard to reach, let alone maintain, your
> > ideal
> > > condition given the very rapidly changing conditions in the manifold
> > > (pressure and temp). Also the water is very likely to boil in the
nozzle
> > or
> > > even before reaching it, vapor-locking the injection system.
> > >
> > > As far as reducing spool-up and increasing throttle response another
> > > approach would be to use a deliberately small sized turbine housing,
and
> > > then aggressively open an oversized waste gate to reduce back pressure
as
> > > soon as the turbo is up to speed. For this to work optimally you'll
need
> > to
> > > use a turbo speed sensor and target a certain turbine speed instead of
the
> > > usual MAP or MAF. If you use a desmodromic wastegate actuator (with
your
> > > classic PWM control signal feeding the 'opening' side and its inverse
> > > applied to the 'closing' side) you can use very little preload on the
> > > actuator and you end up with a very quick and accurate control the
> > > wastegate. With a capable ECU, a properly tuned PID loop and
appropriately
> > > sized turbo components, you get rid of most of the lag and
backpressure
> > with
> > > a reliable system. On top of that, for off-road/competition use, you
can
> > > then implement an electronic anti-lag system (with TPS-based air
bypass,
> > > cylinder cut and ignition retard - and also a MAR-M-247 turbine &
shaft if
> > > durability is on your whish list) and you end up with an absolutely
> > zero-lag
> > > turbo engine. Ultimate examples of those include World Rally Car
engines
> > > which, by the way, run about 11:1 CR and use intake WI along with 102
RON
> > > fuel.
> > >
> > > Hth,
> > > Axel
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
>
> ------------------
> Andris Skulte
> Skulte Performance Designs
> http://www.skulte.com
> Z28tt-89 IROC T56 DFI Twin Turbo
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Diy_efi mailing list
> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi


_______________________________________________
Diy_efi mailing list
Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
http://www.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi