[Diy_efi] info

Mon Oct 31 12:25:35 UTC 2005

Glad to hear it worked out John.

Bill

From: miwukkid <miwukkid at myhome.net>
Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2005 21:11:35 -0800
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] info

Hi Thanks a lot for the many suggestions. I dried the board off and bought a
can of compressed air and very gently blew under the chips. This is a 1991
Circuit Board and as such is all discrete and has no surface mount parts.
The board was conformally coated and didn't seem to have suffered any damage
anywhere, and none of the parts seemed to have been stressed. Sure enough it
fired right off the bat . The check engine light is out and every thing
seems ok. The little engine seems to "come up in the cams" with spades. ie
below normal engine rpm it seems ok but when it gets over the rpm limit and
if I have even about half throttle it just flat bombs. verry impressive. 90
in third gear and it is still pulling! I haven't had a chance to check the
timing and I am going to hook up the injectors up to my scope and look
around. Thanks a lot for all the suggestions.
John A. Allison 

Mike wrote: 
At 05:13 AM 10/31/05, you wrote:

Actually,  they call water the 'universal solvent' for a reason.  I'd start
there,  and if it appears there is some residue the water can't get I might
try more agressive solvents.

mmmm, not really - Water is a fairly good ionic solvent but suffers
from the H to OH equilibria, in that its neutrality is probabilisitc,
when it gets to actually dissolve anything and is either acidic or caustic
as a consequence and has repercussions on that basis. Vis a vis
using water as engine coolant where electrolytic damage is so prevalent,
the H to OH equilibrium seems to win out regardless of what chemicals
are added. That green inhibitor needs frequent changing, what I've
settled on is a tannin type pill which coats the alloy with a protective
layer and seems to work effectively for long periods. The only downside
is a little brown sludge if instructions/amounts not precisely adhered to.

Electronic components are not generally designed for immersion
in water, sure some can tolerate water for cleaning - but for electronics
Isopropanol is more generally accepted as the universal cleaner
and might be interpreted as the universal solvent for pollutants
affecting electronic repair and service. Its also ionic and boards
shouldnt be left in it for long otherwise there electrolytic effects.
The good thing about it is - its so volatile and drys off in a few
mere seconds on some occasions, plenty of ventilation is essential
as it is combustible and although it smells (ok) I wouldnt breath
the stuff at all if I could help it.

Interesting your comment re "aggressive" bringing a human emotive
issue to one of chemical compatibility. What I mean to say is there
are so many products and processes that have only a compatibility
issue not one which is either passive or aggressive
and to use those terms seems discontinuous with solvents. Sure,
the appearance is either one is more or less aggressive than another
but it comes down to a sheer compatibility only in the long run.

Also water is (AFAIK) only ionic whereas Isopropanol is ionic and
covalent in terms of its capacity to dissolve most pollutants which
can affect electronics, the Isopropanol is designed around for that purpose.

Rgds

Mike

Again,  just mho.

Bill

From: "Mike" <niche at iinet.net.au> <mailto:niche at iinet.net.au>

At 08:31 AM 10/29/05, you wrote:

I'd remove it from the case,  wash down the PCB and case good with clear
clean water,  then blow it with compressed air and let it dry for a few
days.
Once I was sure it was complete dry I'd reassemble it and try running it.
What id there to loose?

Best solvent to remove other things is Isopropyl alcohol (Isopropanol),
let dry normally - dont use compressed air, there is potential for localised
static damage,

Rgds

Mike

Just MHO :-)

Bill

From: "Lee M. Lemoine" <llemoine at gmail.com> <mailto:llemoine at gmail.com>

John, if antifreeze can damage paint, think about
what it may do
to a PCB.
You could spend a lot of time replacing parts, and
still have an 
unreliable
ECU. Wrecking yard option sounds good. Make sure it
comes from a
car
without a leaky heater core.

Geoff H

_______________________________________________
Diy_efi mailing list
Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

Regards from

Mike
Perth, Western Australia
VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
Twin tyres for most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au
_______________________________________________
Diy_efi mailing list
Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

_______________________________________________
Diy_efi mailing list
Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

Regards from

Mike
Perth, Western Australia
VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
Twin tyres for most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au
_______________________________________________
Diy_efi mailing list
Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

_______________________________________________
Diy_efi mailing list
Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi

-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: http://lists.diy-efi.org/pipermail/diy_efi/attachments/20051031/fe4313f0/attachment.html 