[Diy_efi] Dead cold rough idle
David M. Ingebretsen
dingebre
Fri Feb 17 19:08:06 UTC 2006
Thanks for the ideas. I do have a heated intake manifold, but because of the
conversion, I don't have heated air anymore. I'm going to try enrichening
(is this a word?) the cold AFR more than I have in the past to see if this
helps.
David M. Ingebretsen M.S., M.E.
Collision Forensics & Engineering, Inc.
2469 East Fort Union Boulevard, Suite #114
Salt Lake City, UT 84121
dingebre at 3dphysics.net
Work: 801 733-5458
-------Original Message-------
From: Torbj?rn Forsman
Date: 02/17/06 11:59:44
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Dead cold rough idle
Hunting at idle might also be caused by wrong control parameters for the
idle speed stabilization or too early ignition (then the engine
response to a change of the idle air valve will not match the control
parameters and the system will oscillate).
Idling problems at a cold engine can usually be avoided by a good intake
air preheating and, of course, heating of the intake manifold. Some
european TBI engines (for example, the 1,6 and 1,8 l engines of VW
Golf/Rabbit from about 1988 to 1997, with Bosch Mono-jetronic or
Mono-motronic TBI) have an electric PTC heater of about 300 W directly
below the TBI unit. This heater is controlled either by a thermostat or
by the ECU, so that it is switched on from a cold start and until the
coolant temperature has reached about 50-70 ?C (120-160 ?F).
Best regards
Torbj?rn Forsman
Lee M. Lemoine wrote:
> Usually when the engines hunting like that your at the edge of a fuel
> map... meaning that either your 500 rpm table is set too rich, so the
> extra fuel makes the engine rev a slight bit... but the 1000 rpm table
> may be too lean, so it falls back again... (rinse, repeat, etc) and
> viola -- a rough idle. The other things that I've seen related to this
> would be the air intake temp compensation (too much / too little) or
> even coolant temp compensation, although you say it seems to do that
> even after warmup.
>
> Most EFI systems use a 'cold start enrich' map, which lasts the first 30
> seconds or so, and fades out gradually. What this means on a cold
> engine is an increased amount of fuel -- causing it to start easier and
> (in your case) idle smoother.. my guess is that whatever range your
> trucks idling in'... the fuel maps too lean ...
>
> Related to that ... When's the last time you changed the fuel filter /
> how's your rail pressure? Maybe your fuel pump is also weak at colder
> temps? (just a thought!)
>
> --Lee
>
>
> On 2/17/06, *David M. Ingebretsen* <dingebre at 3dphysics.net
> <mailto:dingebre at 3dphysics.net>> wrote:
>
>
> Hello all. Been awhile since I've lurked here.
>
> Setup: 1990 Jeep Wrangler, 4.2 liter inline 6, Originally a Howell
> GM TBI conversion with 1227747 ECM, now happily modified and tuned.
>
> I've searched the archives, web, and FTP site and didn't find
> anything which helped.
>
> The problem is this. When cold, (even using the Howell supplied bin
> and their "cold" bin) at or near 0 C, the Jeep starts great, starts
> idling fine but after some 15 to 20 seconds at idle, the RPM's drop
> and it begins to idle very rough. When I drop it into gear (was
> manual, now Chevy 700R4 auto, yes I added a pk/ntrl switch and have
> verified its operation with WinALDL, and I am using the ECM to
> control TCC lockup) and go, it runs fine. Smooth engine speed and
> running. But soon after I stop (2 to 3 seconds) it starts to idle
> rough, sputter, cough, on occasion die. If I poke the accelerator it
> comes back and when I start, no problem. When fully warm, no
> problem. When I start it at about 30 to 50 C, no problem. This was
> the same with the manual.
>
> Question is what -exactly- controls the cold open loop -idle- AFR?
> I've had no luck changing the O/L AFR table except to make it run
> crappy before it goes into closed loop. I've adjusted the closed
> loop temp threshold, cold and warm choke timer, choke table, cold
> AFR v. MAP, time out decay mult. V. Cool. O/L idle AFR enable time
> delay, O/L idle AFR time delay, closed loop timer warm threshold and
> timer. I've looked at the Accel Pump v. Coolant but that doesn't
> seem to be a problem because I can hit the throttle and it snaps
> right in. I've searched the AZDZ hack to see if I could glean
> anything, but didn't find anything useful.
>
> Like I said, it is fine when it starts warmish, but when it is dead
> cold it struggles. So, my thoughts turn to the choke table, but I'm
> not sure.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Thanks all.
>
> David M. Ingebretsen M.S., M.E.
> Collision Forensics & Engineering, Inc.
> 2469 East Fort Union Boulevard, Suite #114
> Salt Lake City, UT 84121
>
> dingebre at 3dphysics.net <mailto:dingebre at 3dphysics.net>
> Work: 801 733-5458
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
> --
> Sincerely,
>
> Lee M. Lemoine
> http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/ <http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/>
> '06 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - 250/250 AWD 5EAT
> '93 Chevy Cavalier Z24 Convertible - 300/330 FWD 5MT (Mclaren Turbo!)
>
>
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