[Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning

Thu Oct 12 13:14:09 UTC 2006

Most likely that is a sensor limitation.  Within the software you can
re-scale the tables to accept a larger range of operation.

Why don't you go to the Moates site and pull down Paul Booth's free
software.  See if he has your EEC "de-coded".  If yours isn't decoded, find
a similar EEC and load up those definition files.  Open it all up and start
to get to know how these things work.  Paul does "de-code" different EEC's
that are requested all the time.  It might take a few weeks for him to get
to it (it's his hobby time too) but usually it gets done.

There may be other free software on that web site I'm simply familiar with
Paul's software.

If you are running in excess of 12 psi you've got a serious motor on your
hands.  Tune it well...

Dan Nicoson

-----Original Message-----
From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
Behalf Of Ben P
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 12:52 AM
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning

yeah. I did hear something about the standard computer being unable to cope
with more than about 12psi, no matter how modified. Is that true, or is that
just a MAP sensor limitation?

and how do you go about changing the calibration of the map sensor on a
factory computer when you change it (to one that reads higher)?

thanks
Ben

>From: "Daniel Nicoson" <A6intruder at myo-p.com>
>Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:21:01 -0400
>
>For the price of a MS you could have the Moates equipment and have FULL
>control of your EEC-V, no hardware hacks etc.
>
>You mentioned cost being a significant issue here.  Properly controlling
>your tune is easily as important as any other parts you may have bolted on.
>Those parts often turn to junk without proper control of operating
>parameters.  Don't short sell yourself on proper control of the engine.
>
>Good luck with the project.
>
>Dan Nicoson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Ben P
>Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:02 PM
>To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>
>
>no distributor to rotate...
>
>I should see if I can do that to the cam angle sensor though, as a dizzy
>fits into the same hole.
>
>And I came across an interesting theory on www.fordforums.com.au (the
>'400hp
>for $5000' thread in the eseries section, my username there is BLSTIC).
>Apparently its possible for the megasquirt ecu to use the cam angle sensor
>while the ford ecu is also using it. This can lead to full megasquirt spark
>control, with the ford computer injecting its usual amount of fuel for non
>boosted conditions, and the megasquirt also supplying extra fuel (via
>another set of six injectors) under boost conditions only. The only problem
>with this approach is that the cam angle sensor signal is too weak for the
>ford computer to function properly (as it is also being 'used' by the
>megasquirt), leading to fuel injection problems.
>
>If that were to be done, the only reason I would want the ford computer
>still there is to control the dash, auto trans, trip computer, and
>diagnostic functions. It also cuts out a lot of mapping.
>
>thoughts?
>Ben
>
> >From: "Mike" <niche at iinet.net.au>
> >Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
> >Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 20:47:47 +0800
> >
> >At 02:07 PM 10/10/06, you wrote:
> >
> > >Can anyone think of a way to retard the ignition timing on an EECV Car
> >(with coil packs, no distributor) under boost only?
> >
> >You could use the standard mechanical route,
> >rig up a diaphragm, such as the type which runs the waste gate, should be
> >able to
> >get them quite cheap nowadays and use this to rotate the (loosened)
> >distributor
> >(in the right direction of course), could use a lever arm as well in case
> >there isnt
> >enough motion, dead simple way to do it, just need to fabricate a
>bracket.
> >I'd suggest 1.6 to 2mm plate aluminium, easy to cut and drill and if not
> >too long quite stable...
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Regards from
> >
> >
> >Mike Massen
> >Network Power Systems
> >Lab 08 9444 8961
> >Mb 0438 048961
> >Perth, Western Australia
> >* VL/VK Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
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