[Diy_efi] Re: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 19, Issue 28

David Long daweil
Sun Sep 24 00:25:53 UTC 2006


Hi,
   
  Thanks for the reply. My plugs are gapped to 0.035. I tried a different gaps. No change.
   
  Normally I ran 14-15psi of boost. But this happens when the car is at idle.
   
  I didn't recalibrate the map sensor. Everything was working fine when this happened. So it sounds more like a sensor problem.
   
  The motor was newly built. I do have some blow-by. I had to reroute the PCV to solve smoking problem. When I pulled the heads recently, I found out 2 of the 6 cylinders were bored out too large. The pistons were moving side to side. The machine shop screwed up. The compression still looks good. But I have to get a leak down test.
   
  My rev limit is disabled. I do use a idle valve. It's working fine. I can try to disable and adjust the throttle stop and see if it makes a difference.
   
  The TPS works fine. I tried the open it slowly. The throttle % goes up smoothly when gas pedal is pressed down slowly. Does it this mean the TPS is good? 
   
  

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Today's Topics:

1. Misfire (David Long)
2. Re: Misfire (Mike Yates)
3. Re: Misfire (Mike Yates)
4. Re: Misfire (Lee M. Lemoine)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:01:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Long 
Subject: [Diy_efi] Misfire
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Message-ID: <20060922210126.56253.qmail at web55006.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi,

New to the list...

I have an Haltech E11v2 working with my VG30DETT on 5bar map sensor. Everything was fine until recently it developped strange problem. It's been frustrating trying to find it. I hope someone can give me some pointers.

When the car is idling, the TPS can not be opened over 40%. And if I open the throttle slowly, the engine will go up to about 5500-6000rpm. In both cases, from that point the AFR will shoot up to more than 20:1. And the motor oil has the gas smell. It is almost like the spark was blowing out during those two conditions.

I first thought it's the TPS. I replace it with 2 used ones, no help and TPS calbration seems to be fine. I cleaned the CAS, TPS and temp sensor connectors, the fuel pressure is good, the ignition coils are good and fire good sparks when I cranked the car, the intake and exhaust system have no clogs, the rpm signal is good when the problem occurs. When I remove the CAS and rotate the CAS shaft manually, the injectors click and the spark plugs fire. I also check there is no leaks from the injectors.

It's driving me nuts. What else could it be? Thanks in advance!


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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:43:26 -0700
From: Mike Yates 
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Misfire
To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

what is the gap on the plugs and what boost are you running?

On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:01:26 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:

>Hi,
> 
> New to the list...
> 
> I have an Haltech E11v2 working with my VG30DETT on 5bar map sensor. Everything was fine until recently it developped strange problem. It's been frustrating trying to find it. I hope someone can give me some pointers.
> 
> When the car is idling, the TPS can not be opened over 40%. And if I open the throttle slowly, the engine will go up to about 5500-6000rpm. In both cases, from that point the AFR will shoot up to more than 20:1. And the motor oil has the gas smell. It is almost like the spark was blowing out during those two conditions.
> 
> I first thought it's the TPS. I replace it with 2 used ones, no help and TPS calbration seems to be fine. I cleaned the CAS, TPS and temp sensor connectors, the fuel pressure is good, the ignition coils are good and fire good sparks when I cranked the car, the intake and exhaust system have no clogs, the rpm signal is good when the problem occurs. When I remove the CAS and rotate the CAS shaft manually, the injectors click and the spark plugs fire. I also check there is no leaks from the injectors.
> 
> It's driving me nuts. What else could it be? Thanks in advance!
>
> 
>---------------------------------
>Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1?/min.
>_______________________________________________
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>Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Fri, 22 Sep 2006 15:04:36 -0700
From: Mike Yates 
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Misfire
To: tmc_mike_yates at sbcglobal.net, diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Message-ID: <9cm8h2havhbtp24acbs9pltlmahs6c7pdk at 4ax.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:43:26 -0700, you wrote:

>what is the gap on the plugs and what boost are you running? also have you checked leak down to figure out if you have a blow-by problem? this may cause fouling.

Mike
>
>On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:01:26 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
>
>>Hi,
>> 
>> New to the list...
>> 
>> I have an Haltech E11v2 working with my VG30DETT on 5bar map sensor. Everything was fine until recently it developped strange problem. It's been frustrating trying to find it. I hope someone can give me some pointers.
>> 
>> When the car is idling, the TPS can not be opened over 40%. And if I open the throttle slowly, the engine will go up to about 5500-6000rpm. In both cases, from that point the AFR will shoot up to more than 20:1. And the motor oil has the gas smell. It is almost like the spark was blowing out during those two conditions.
>> 
>> I first thought it's the TPS. I replace it with 2 used ones, no help and TPS calbration seems to be fine. I cleaned the CAS, TPS and temp sensor connectors, the fuel pressure is good, the ignition coils are good and fire good sparks when I cranked the car, the intake and exhaust system have no clogs, the rpm signal is good when the problem occurs. When I remove the CAS and rotate the CAS shaft manually, the injectors click and the spark plugs fire. I also check there is no leaks from the injectors.
>> 
>> It's driving me nuts. What else could it be? Thanks in advance!
>>
>> 
>>---------------------------------
>>Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1?/min.
>>_______________________________________________
>>Diy_efi mailing list
>>Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>>Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>>Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi
>
>_______________________________________________
>Diy_efi mailing list
>Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
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------------------------------

Message: 4
Date: Sat, 23 Sep 2006 09:34:03 -0400
From: "Lee M. Lemoine" 
Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] Misfire
To: tmc_mike_yates at sbcglobal.net, diy_efi at diy-efi.org
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Another thought would be something in the throttle pump menu going awry, or
something with cold start enrichment or idle control speed (if your using
IAC) i had funky things happen with both of mine... I ended up enabling the
zero throttle map and unplugging the IAC servo til i could figure out what
was going on -- car ran so good like that i never bothered fixing it...

My logic is that if its revving way up like that it's got to have some sort
of logic mismatch for the amount of air thats coming in, and also has to be
trying to compensate for the idle because it gradually comes back down...
You re-calibrated the haltech for the new MAP sensor right? i know mine
only takes a 3 bar but its an older unit...

As far as the oil having a gas smell, those ECM's can usually do either a
'fuel cut' or 'spark cut' for 'RPM MANAGEMENT' ... if it over-revs it'll
cut either the spark or the fuel -- most turbo cars its safer to cut the
spark and go rich than have it cut your spark at higher boost and melt a
hole in your piston -- sounds as if you should take a look for that and flop
it. Either way, it's revving way up and it sounds like its trying to limit
the RPM travel -- again, if you've got IAC just use your zero throttle map
and disable the IAC totally (unplug the servo) and disable in the haltech.
that'll use whatever your current throttle plate offset is (if you have to
move the set pin be sure to re-calibrate your TPS).

Which brings me up on that one. Check your TPS by watching the engine data
screen with the haltech software 'online' but without the engine running.
gradually run the throttle up and down and see if it's a nice smooth
movement. If it's not, sounds like your accellerator pumps (throttle pump)
settings are off..

Let me know how you make out...




On 9/22/06, Mike Yates wrote:
>
> On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:43:26 -0700, you wrote:
>
> >what is the gap on the plugs and what boost are you running? also have
> you checked leak down to figure out if you have a blow-by problem? this may
> cause fouling.
>
> Mike
> >
> >On Fri, 22 Sep 2006 14:01:26 -0700 (PDT), you wrote:
> >
> >>Hi,
> >>
> >> New to the list...
> >>
> >> I have an Haltech E11v2 working with my VG30DETT on 5bar map sensor.
> Everything was fine until recently it developped strange problem. It's been
> frustrating trying to find it. I hope someone can give me some pointers.
> >>
> >> When the car is idling, the TPS can not be opened over 40%. And if I
> open the throttle slowly, the engine will go up to about 5500-6000rpm. In
> both cases, from that point the AFR will shoot up to more than 20:1. And the
> motor oil has the gas smell. It is almost like the spark was blowing out
> during those two conditions.
> >>
> >> I first thought it's the TPS. I replace it with 2 used ones, no help
> and TPS calbration seems to be fine. I cleaned the CAS, TPS and temp sensor
> connectors, the fuel pressure is good, the ignition coils are good and fire
> good sparks when I cranked the car, the intake and exhaust system have no
> clogs, the rpm signal is good when the problem occurs. When I remove the CAS
> and rotate the CAS shaft manually, the injectors click and the spark plugs
> fire. I also check there is no leaks from the injectors.
> >>
> >> It's driving me nuts. What else could it be? Thanks in advance!
> >>
> >>
> >>---------------------------------
> >>Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great
> rates starting at 1?/min.
> >>_______________________________________________
> >>Diy_efi mailing list
> >>Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >>Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >>Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Diy_efi mailing list
> >Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi
>
> _______________________________________________
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> Subscribe: http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> Main WWW page: http://www.diy-efi.org/diy_efi
>



-- 
Sincerely,
Lee M. Lemoine
KB1NQI - Amateur Radio
http://www.turbochargedsoul.com/
'06 Subaru Legacy GT Limited - 250/250 AWD 5EAT
'93 Chevy Cavalier Z24 Convertible - 300/330 FWD 5MT (Mclaren Turbo!)


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End of Diy_efi Digest, Vol 19, Issue 28
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