[Diy_efi] GM Fuel Pump / Tank Options

[Mike Frels]

I would be willing to bet there is next to zero rust on the tanks internal surfaces. I have been fighting filter and injector clogging rust for several years on my '86 TPI Camaro. I have had the tank out multiple times replacing pumps and gauge senders. There is always brownish patches sitting in the low spots in the tank that turn out to just be rust dust that has settled there. When I rinse tank out with fresh gasoline it goes back to being nice and fresh silvery tinned clean. The rust is originating in the fuel lines which are plain mild carbon steel with plating or tinning only on the OD. The ID is bare steel and now after 21 years of occasional water contaminated fuel is quite corroded.

Replace Feed and Return lines with stainless steel tubing. With the current trend toward gasoline containing highly hygroscopic alcohol the water content of our fuels is only going to rise.

Mike


-----Original Message-----
>From: Clair Davis <clair.davis at charter.net>
>Sent: Aug 29, 2007 10:20 PM
>To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] GM Fuel Pump / Tank Options
>

>With regards to the steel tank, I won't be modifying my existing tank.  It's
>38 years old, and in decent shape for what it is, but it's not ideal for any
>EFI setup.  Just cycling the fuel through the filters on a return system
>tends to clog them after a few hours, so I know there is a rust problem in
>the tank now.  It was pretty nice 6-7 years ago, though.  SO, I'd be getting
>a brand new reproduction gas tank from Quanta or one of their resellers,
>cost is in the $160-200 range.  These are nice pieces, and are stamped from
>Ni-terne coated steel.  I'm ASSuming that this is the "tinning" that was
>mentioned earlier, with the addition of a flash-coat of nickel to improve
>the terne coating adhesion.  If soldering/tinning will do the trick, that
>sounds better to me than welding - plastic OR steel.
>