It runs now! (pulls liike a beast too)

[Todd....!!]

Just to clarify a bit on my prev post about this subject....

Rotor phasing is the realationship between the rotor and the reluctor,
the only way to correct a true rotor phasing problem is to move either
the rotor OR the reluctor from 1 to as many degrees as it takes to keep
spark crossfiring from occuring at ALL ranges of timing which occur...

Gary, with this in mind, merely moving the vac advance plate would just
be reducing your total timing, thus possibly reducing performance, gas
mileage, etc.... That WOULD be a quick patch however, just like removing
the vac adv vac hose...(If ya even HAVE a vac adv hose, that is!  I
believe that if you're runnin F.I. that the usual Computer controlled
ignition timing goes along with it most of the time....but not ALWAYS,
I'm sure...)

Cool?

Later!

Todd....!!
http://www.c-com.net/~atc347/toddlnk.htm
------------


Gary Derian wrote:
> 
> Wouldn't that just move everything over?  If you have converted a mechanical
> advance distributor to EFI you would have to move the vacuum advance plate
> to adjust the phasing.
> 
> Gary Derian <gderian at oh.verio.com>
> 
> > > The problem?  Looks like it's related to 'rotor phasing'.  I don't
> > > know squat about how the reluctor wheel/sensor in the distributor
> > > works (seems like it needs to be adjusted), but having come this far
> > > and learned so much, I have faith that we'll figure it out :^)
> > > Whoever mentioned the rotor phasing deal yesterday on the list, thank
> > > you -- I learned about it flipping through the Haltech book and there
> >
> > Even a blind hog stumbles on an acorn every now and again...
> >
> > To fix that, you pull the dizzy out enough that the rotor will turn a few
> > degrees til it can catch the next tooth and then re-time. If it doesn't
> > run at all you know you went the wrong way.  :)
> >
> > [EFI content is that you adjust the rotor/dizzy housing not the
> > pickup...just like when there were points in there.]
> >
> > -greg
> >