165 MAF troubles

[EFISYSTEMS at aol.com]

Hi,
   Do you have any type of scanner you can hook up to the ALDL to see what is 
happening during warm up????   If not replace Intake air temp sensor 
(IAT)and/or engine coolant sensor(ECT)...If you have an automatic trans and 
haven't experienced any weird torque convertor stuff(ie coming in and out of 
lockup with no change of TPS) I would start with the IAT sensor.....either 
one of these can cause the probs you are experiencing.........hth's.....just 
some clues on what you are describing.
-Carl Summers

In a message dated 10/12/99 12:59:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
djktno at engin.umich.edu writes:

<< Subj:     165 MAF troubles
 Date:  10/12/99 12:59:57 PM Pacific Daylight Time
 From:  djktno at engin.umich.edu (Daniel Joseph Kunnath II)
 Sender:    owner-gmecm at esl.eng.ohio-state.edu
 Reply-to:  gmecm at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 To:    gmecm at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu
 
 
    Hey all,
 
 
    This is the lowdown on what I need help with.  My Bosch hot-wire
 MAF for an 89 L98 Camaro is acting up.  Well really, the engine is acting
 up and I suspected the MAF was the culprit.  Where I really have trouble
 is during cold start-up.  The engine will stall and I can't get it to idel
 properly.  I adjusted the TPS and replaced the IAC valve, but that didn't
 do the trick.  I then took my old voltmeter to the MAF and checked it out.
 When the harness is unplugged out of the MAF and the ignition is on, I get
 12V from the power relay (correct) and I get 5V from the MAF sensor input
 (correct).  The kicker is when I plug the harness into the MAF.  After I
 power up the MAF, I measure 2.2V at both the computer and the MAF.  When
 the engine is idling with the MAF connected, I get 0.4V at idle (correct),
 but the thing pegs out at near 2.2V @ 4500rpm.  According to everything
 I've ever seen, engine off ignition on should be 5V and engine on should
 go from about 0.4V at idle to near 5V at WOT.  With the low redline of the
 TPI engines, I'd imagine that I should be pulling near 5V @ 4500-5000rpm.  
 
    The engine will run with the MAF connected, and it idles steady
 even during the old broomstick test.  I can't figure out where the problem
 lies...could it by the sensor grounds?  I can't find enough information on
 the insides of this MAF to dig into it.  I don't want to spend the ~$400
 for a new one either if I can help it.  I'd like to swap another in to see
 what happens, so possibly would one of you who are doing the MAF->MAP swap
 like to get rid of your working MAFs?  
 
    Any insight is appreciated.  I've had this problem ongoing for
 weeks now and I want to get it resolved.  I got to get back out on the
 road!
 
    Thanks,
 
    DK
  >>