CTS dampening

[Bruce Plecan]

there are no heating issues,
it's just watching the thermostat open and close.
The race pulley is history,  I'll trade good spark for 2-3 HP anytime <g>
Everything is new, and functioning right, the only changes are what I
mentioned
Bruce


I'm not going to say the silly things like:
Make sure the air deflector is on below the radiator
Make sure BOTH speeds of the fan are working
Make sure a hose is not collapsing under pump suction (no 'spring' inside?)
Water wetter actually works (??)
Small race crank pullys (like the one you *may* still have) are buggers in
the heat, and at stop lights and the taco bell drive thru.
Lean condition?
Hot trans cooler up front?
foot-on-the-floor-eye-tis?
Nope - Ain't gonna say it... Dont need to  ;-)
Oops, this ain't the GN list?! sorry, flashbacks.

----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp at bright.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 5:39 PM
Subject: CTS dampening


> Well, I can tell ya why it's so heavily dampened.
>
> On the GN to increase the cylinder head coolant presssures, I plugged the
> coolant bypass hose, and drilled a 1/8" hole thru the thermostat so it's
> self bleeding, and to in part make up for the bypass.
>
> Noticed during warm up the temp would go to 225 and then settle back to
200
> (190dF thermostat).  Anyway, started watching the temp real close while
> driving, and you can really see the temp oscillate from the thermostat
> cycling.
> In oem configuration the thermostat is basically a switch across the
bypass
> / radiator for maintaining the engine temp..
> Plan B is removing the heater valve, and just using a restictor in line
> (same as my SBC setup was), heater always on, and use the ducts for temp
> control.  Not as confortable for the creatures, but I don't personally
have
> to worry about detonation.
> Plan C is figuring out the recirculating thermostat.
> Bruce
>
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