CTS dampening

[Dave Zug]

What? I didn't say anything ;-)


Radiator might be TOO efficient.
you need a 1/4" hole (or another eighth inch hole) in the thermo to let the
hot back into the RAD faster, and not let it cool so much and push that slug
of cold in so fast when the stat opens. The swings may lessen somewhat. I
dunno. Brain spews this stuff out and fingers just keep typing sorry.

The Robertshaw stat suppsedly has a more linear action, as opposed to the GM
open/close stat.

I'm finished , honest. ;-)

----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp at bright.net>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: CTS dampening


> there are no heating issues,
> it's just watching the thermostat open and close.
> The race pulley is history,  I'll trade good spark for 2-3 HP anytime <g>
> Everything is new, and functioning right, the only changes are what I
> mentioned
> Bruce
>
>
> I'm not going to say the silly things like:
> Make sure the air deflector is on below the radiator
> Make sure BOTH speeds of the fan are working
> Make sure a hose is not collapsing under pump suction (no 'spring'
inside?)
> Water wetter actually works (??)
> Small race crank pullys (like the one you *may* still have) are buggers in
> the heat, and at stop lights and the taco bell drive thru.
> Lean condition?
> Hot trans cooler up front?
> foot-on-the-floor-eye-tis?
> Nope - Ain't gonna say it... Dont need to  ;-)
> Oops, this ain't the GN list?! sorry, flashbacks.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp at bright.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Friday, September 08, 2000 5:39 PM
> Subject: CTS dampening
>
>
> > Well, I can tell ya why it's so heavily dampened.
> >
> > On the GN to increase the cylinder head coolant presssures, I plugged
the
> > coolant bypass hose, and drilled a 1/8" hole thru the thermostat so it's
> > self bleeding, and to in part make up for the bypass.
> >
> > Noticed during warm up the temp would go to 225 and then settle back to
> 200
> > (190dF thermostat).  Anyway, started watching the temp real close while
> > driving, and you can really see the temp oscillate from the thermostat
> > cycling.
> > In oem configuration the thermostat is basically a switch across the
> bypass
> > / radiator for maintaining the engine temp..
> > Plan B is removing the heater valve, and just using a restictor in line
> > (same as my SBC setup was), heater always on, and use the ducts for temp
> > control.  Not as confortable for the creatures, but I don't personally
> have
> > to worry about detonation.
> > Plan C is figuring out the recirculating thermostat.
> > Bruce
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --
> > To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to
majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
>
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
>
>

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org