BatV

Bruce nacelp at bright.net
Tue Jul 24 23:59:32 GMT 2001


>From where the neg ties to the body (assuming it's a short run), run a
second 1/0 to the engine.  Also, run one and perferably two grounds to the
body.   While it might not change anything short term, long term you'll
thank me.  Main power and grounds even to those that know how important they
are, are often not done well enough.
   I always have a single heavy battery ground going to the actual engine
block, not the head, not the timing cover, the block.
   In places where it gets cold, the first couple milliseconds the starte
load is hundreds of amps, and for the ecm to get a clear and accurate
voltage sense, can be difficult.
Bruce




From: "rr" <RRauscher at nni.com>
Subject: Re: BatV
> Have 1/0 from battery to starter, then 8awg from starter to J block.
> Body is ground return. ECM picks up power from J block. Also
> have heavy duty switch on gnd line, 1/4 volt lost right there.
> BobR.

> Bruce wrote:
> > Me, Doc, and Sleepy all draw the line at 9.0V
> > What ga. wiring ya using?.
> > Bruce

> > From: "rr" <rrauscher at nni.com>
> > Subject: BatV
> > > Have a good question: what is the minimum acceptable
> > > battery voltage during crank? I put a DVM across the
> > > battery terminals, pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked
> > > for ~10 seconds. Battery drops to ~10.7 volts and holds
> > > during the cranking.
> > > For a charged battery & good starter is this a bit low?
> > > EFI content: The ECM will still fire the injectors and
> > > the engine starts with this low of a battery voltage.
> > > The ECM reports the BatV term to be at 9.0 volts during
> > > crank. Lots of loss with the battery in the trunk!
> > > BobR.


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