[Gmecm] HEI module
Cowen
captain_krill
Mon Nov 28 08:31:44 UTC 2005
David, I saw what you'd written and a thought came to
me:
Were you trying to use the EST to gain computerized
advance and knock sensing? If that was your plan, why
not use the Hall effect sensor in the distributor to
trigger the EST, and the EST to trigger the coil?
I believe the regular crank sensor is a pretty dirty
pulse, requiring an internal buffer in the EST, so I
wonder if the EST can handle the Hall effect signal
without an external buffer?
Yes, I know the reluctor might need some modification
(I haven't figured out all of the discussions on
reluctor angles!) but that seems a minor thing?
Just some brainstorming!
Duncan
--- gmecm-request at diy-efi.org wrote:
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> > Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Ang: Re: Ang: RE: [Gmecm] New ROM-code in a
> 1227747?
> (Per Lonnborg)
> 2. Re: Putting the computer in the engine
> compartment?
> (Andrew Gibson)
> 3. Re: Putting the computer in the engine
> compartment? (Andrew G.)
> 4. HEI module (David Allen)
> 5. SAturn engine swap (Andrew Gibson)
> 6. Re: HEI module (WopOnTour)
> 7. Re: HEI module (David Allen)
> 8. Re: SAturn engine swap (Jeff Silva)
> 9. SAturn engine swap (Andrew Gibson)
> > From: Per Lonnborg <perlon at passagen.se>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 00:52:17 +0100 (MET)
> Subject: Ang: Re: Ang: RE: [Gmecm] New ROM-code in a
> 1227747?
>
> OK,
>
> with the ROM inside the CPU I see the difficulties.
> Thanks for clearing that out for me.
>
> /Per
>
> >----Ursprungligt meddelande----
> >Fr?n: b.shaw at comcast.net
> >Datum: 2005-nov-26 20:52
> >Till: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> >?rende: Re: Ang: RE: [Gmecm] New ROM-code in a
> 1227747?
> >
> >As Dennis said, the ROM is contained in the CPU.
> Removing the CPU and
> >replacing it with 'something else' is a very big
> job. You'd be
> much better
> >off using the thirdgen device. It should be fairly
> easy to accomplish your
> >goals that way.
> >
> >The CPU is a 68hc11 variant
> with a few special instructions, built by
> >Motorola for GM. You can't replace it with a
> commercial part without
> >re-writing the code.
> >
> >Bill
> >
> >> --- Per Lonnborg <perlon at passagen.se> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Wow!
> >>> That was an impressing project going on over
> there,
> >>> a complete
> new TBI-code with better options than in
> >>> many new EFI-system it seems!
> >>>
> >>> This was a bit more than I had plans for though,
> so
> >>>
> I will ask again if there is a possibility at all to
> >>> change the onboard ROM with
> >>> "something else"?
> >>>
> >>> On Ludis pages there
> are instructions to dump the
> >>> ROM-content into a computer, so I guess the hard
> >>> part is to replace
> >>> that stock ROM chip. What chip
> is that btw?
> >>>
> >>> I might add that I am quite new to both diy-efi
> and
> >>> assembler programming, so maybe some of my
> >>> questions
> seems strange!
> >>>
> >>> Thanks,
> >>>
> >>> /Per
> >>>
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Gmecm mailing list
> >Gmecm at diy-efi.
> org
> >http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> >
>
>
>
> > From: Andrew Gibson <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com>
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2005 20:50:15 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: [Gmecm] Re: Putting the computer in the
> engine compartment?
>
> Why don't you just smaer everything with dielectric
> grease? It is water tight, doesn't get eaten by
> battery acid, doesn't short stuff out and stuff can
> be unplugged later without damaging anything. The
> only downside is it attracts dirt. (Goey stuff
> always does.) You could smear it all over the ecm
> mainboard and pack all the connectors with it to get
> a good seal.
>
> The stuff has been reccomended, with very good
> results, for battery terminals for years.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> songs. Try it free.> From: "Andrew G."
<gmecm at 4usapride.com>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 08:15:41 -0500
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Putting the computer in the
> engine compartment?
>
> The '727 Corvette underhood ECM is basically a '730
> in a weatherproof case.
> The '730 is a very well documented ECM.
>
> --andrew
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bill Shaw" <b.shaw at comcast.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 9:28 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] Putting the computer in the
> engine compartment?
>
>
> > I'm surprised nobody's mentioned the obvious (or
> did I just miss it
> again?).
> > What about using a computer that is DESIGNED to go
> under the hood? Or if
> a
> > different computer can't be used how about using
> the case from another
> > computer that was designed to go under the hood?
> >
> > My LT1 has the 8051 under the hood. It's not
> waterproof, but it's at
> least
> > water resistant, and there are a number of others
> that live under the
> hood
> > with no problems.
> >
> >
> > Bill
> > '94 Z28 LT1/A4
> > '84 928s 4.7L/5 sp. Vortech/749
> > '84 Mondial Cab. QV 3.0L/5 sp.
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Gmecm mailing list
> > Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> >
>
>
>
> > From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> To: "GM-ECM" <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 17:24:17 -0800
> Subject: [Gmecm] HEI module
>
> Guys, has anyone expirimented with firing an HEI
> ignition module using
> only the EST and Bypass connections? In other words,
> pull "bypass" high, and
> pulse the "EST" line to create a firing event
> without any pickup coil
> connected to the module? I may do a bench test to
> see if this is possible.
> Just curious if this has been tried before?
> (I'm talking of the computer HEI units with the
> coil& battery plug, GBRE
> plug, and PN connector for pickup coil.)
> Later,
> David
>
>
>
> > From: Andrew Gibson <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com>
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 16:19:29 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: [Gmecm] SAturn engine swap
>
> Are you guys crazy? Having done 3 of these engines I
> can seak from experience. THEY DO NOT COME OUT THE
> TOP! You can get an automatic engine out the top if
> you are very agressive with a BIG prybar and don't
> mind gouging the trans bellhousing. Getting it back
> in doesn't happen. Manual trans, forget it. If you
> will notince the 3/4 inch space between the
> accessory pullies on the front of the motor and the
> 2" of the trans that go under the driver's
> framerail. This adds up the 1 1/4 " that you have to
> wedge to some out the top with the trans. If you
> leave the auto trans in you get down to about 1/2".
> Still not happening without breaking something.
>
> Going out the bottom is not bad. You still have to
> disconnect the wiring harness. The radiator must be
> supported with bailing wire to prevent it from
> breaking. And you unbolt the struts leaving the
> axles, trans and everything else on the cradle. The
> biggest challenge is getting the body lifted up high
> enough. Typically this requires a hoist or major
> creativity with a floor jack and cinder blocks. The
> last one I did took 4 1/2 hours out the bottom.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> songs. Try it free.> From: "WopOnTour"
<wopontour at hotmail.com>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 17:30:01 -0700
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] HEI module
>
> David
> You may be able to accomplish what you are saying,
> however you will still
> need to use SOME form if signal generator
> referenced/synchronized to
> crankshaft position (aka IGN REFERENCE), in order to
> create the raw signal
> source that produces/influences the EST output
> signal. So you would
> certainly need to create a digital reference signal
> with either conditioned
> VR or hall-effect devices that were triggered
> appropriately at your desired
> firing frequency.
> So in short, NO IGN REF= NO EST
> JMO
> WOT
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> To: "GM-ECM" <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 6:24 PM
> Subject: [Gmecm] HEI module
>
>
> > Guys, has anyone expirimented with firing an HEI
> ignition module using
> > only the EST and Bypass connections? In other
> words, pull "bypass" high,
> > and
> > pulse the "EST" line to create a firing event
> without any pickup coil
> > connected to the module? I may do a bench test to
> see if this is
> > possible.
> > Just curious if this has been tried before?
> > (I'm talking of the computer HEI units with the
> coil& battery plug, GBRE
> > plug, and PN connector for pickup coil.)
> > Later,
> > David
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Gmecm mailing list
> > Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> >
>
> > From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 18:46:38 -0800
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] HEI module
>
> Yes, I get it. I was thinking of making a box
> using a PIC that would
> buffer a points-type ignition signal and provide a
> clean 5V logic level
> reference pulse. This box could filter the signal
> by debouncing, and
> filling in missing pulses, and limiting
> cylinder-by-cylinder timing
> variation. Something I'll probably never do but it
> is interesting to think
> about.
> Just an idea. An electronic pickup is by far
> better in all respects.
> Someone showed me an engine with a distributor so
> strange nobody makes an
> electronic pickup for it. It was an old Ford
> Flathead with a front
> distributor. It would probably be easier to
> fabricate a crank trigger setup
> with a VR sensor and use the Flathead dist for cap/
> rotor function only.
> Easier than making such a program to do the above.
> Thanks,
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "WopOnTour" <wopontour at hotmail.com>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 4:30 PM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] HEI module
>
>
> > David
> > You may be able to accomplish what you are saying,
> however you will still
> > need to use SOME form if signal generator
> referenced/synchronized to
> > crankshaft position (aka IGN REFERENCE), in order
> to create the raw signal
> > source that produces/influences the EST output
> signal. So you would
> > certainly need to create a digital reference
> signal with either
> conditioned
> > VR or hall-effect devices that were triggered
> appropriately at your
> desired
> > firing frequency.
> > So in short, NO IGN REF= NO EST
> > JMO
> > WOT
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> > To: "GM-ECM" <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 6:24 PM
> > Subject: [Gmecm] HEI module
> >
> >
> > > Guys, has anyone expirimented with firing an
> HEI ignition module using
> > > only the EST and Bypass connections? In other
> words, pull "bypass" high,
> > > and
> > > pulse the "EST" line to create a firing event
> without any pickup coil
> > > connected to the module? I may do a bench test
> to see if this is
> > > possible.
> > > Just curious if this has been tried before?
> > > (I'm talking of the computer HEI units with the
> coil& battery plug,
> GBRE
> > > plug, and PN connector for pickup coil.)
> > > Later,
> > > David
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Gmecm mailing list
> > > Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> > >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Gmecm mailing list
> > Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> >
>
>
> > From: Jeff Silva <low_sl2 at yahoo.com>
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 17:51:23 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] SAturn engine swap
>
> I've removed Saturn engines with automatic and
> manual transaxles out
> the top dozens of different times. All you need is
> an engine hoist
> with a load tilter. Takes me an hour to remove.
>
> The way you describe is the most labor intensive and
> not to mention
> unsafe way to do if you don't have a vehicle lift.
>
> To clear the frame rails you need to remove the
> upper axis engine
> mount, lower dogbone mount assembly and crankshaft
> pulley. The
> engine/trans assembly will come right out with a
> little tilt.
>
> If you want to challenge me and live in the bay area
> I can show you
> next weekend. I will remove my engine/trans through
> the top just to
> prove that it can be done.
>
> Jeff Silva
> DifferentRacing.com
>
>
>
>
> --- Andrew Gibson <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > Are you guys crazy? Having done 3 of these engines
> I can seak from
> > experience. THEY DO NOT COME OUT THE TOP! You can
> get an automatic
> > engine out the top if you are very agressive with
> a BIG prybar and
> > don't mind gouging the trans bellhousing. Getting
> it back in doesn't
> > happen. Manual trans, forget it. If you will
> notince the 3/4 inch
> > space between the accessory pullies on the front
> of the motor and the
> > 2" of the trans that go under the driver's
> framerail. This adds up
> > the 1 1/4 " that you have to wedge to some out the
> top with the
> > trans. If you leave the auto trans in you get down
> to about 1/2".
> > Still not happening without breaking something.
> >
> > Going out the bottom is not bad. You still have
> to disconnect the
> > wiring harness. The radiator must be supported
> with bailing wire to
> > prevent it from breaking. And you unbolt the
> struts leaving the
> > axles, trans and everything else on the cradle.
> The biggest challenge
> > is getting the body lifted up high enough.
> Typically this requires a
> > hoist or major creativity with a floor jack and
> cinder blocks. The
> > last one I did took 4 1/2 hours out the bottom.
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> songs. Try it free.>
> _______________________________________________
> > Gmecm mailing list
> > Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
> >
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited
> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free.
> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/
>
> > From: Andrew Gibson <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com>
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Date: Sun, 27 Nov 2005 20:58:18 -0800 (PST)
> Subject: [Gmecm] SAturn engine swap
>
> Little tilt huh? Then why need the load tilter? I
> would like to see any virgin engine get pulled out
> of a fwd car in less than 1 hour without breaking
> anything in the process. Now offence Jeff but what
> you are describing time wise is just not possible.
> Maybe you could tilt the motor enough to get it out
> the top. But that is still a lot of work. I'll stick
> to dropping them out the bottom.
>
> Oh, by the way I live in Utah. And I need to pull
> the motor out of my donor truck this weekend before
> it snows again. I would like to see pictures of how
> much tilt it take to get these out the top though.
>
> Just for the record, Cinder blocks stacked in a
> pyramid with the open end up and 2x4 on top to keep
> the pinchweld from digging into the mortar are far
> more stable than any jackstand out there. Something
> about a wider base....
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! Music Unlimited - Access over 1 million
> songs. Try it free.>
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