[Gmecm] SAturn engine swap

Tue Nov 29 05:31:50 UTC 2005

Hi Jeff :)

Does your class of racing require you to keep the Saturn ECM/PCM?

If not, why not save your hair and go with a 1227727, 1227730 or maybe 749??

These boxes are readily available, with well documented bin/ecu files, and 
compatible with a 4cyl speed density platform running boost. However IFAIK 
much of the initial decompile required to get them to this point 
necessitated certain "leaked" details that GM/Delco couldn't keep the lid 
on. I have never seen such details available for the Saturn calibrations 
however. They could be out there... somewhere...but...

I understand your brand devotion, I truly do, but IMO you could be a couple 
years away from getting the code sorted. I went though all this with 
Bradley.P a few years back- I think he had an aneurism trying to do it all 
alone.

Not trying to deter your efforts in any way shape or form but...

Regards

WopOnTour

PS> Have you looked at the MS for the older Saturns? another potential 
option, if you can go stand-alone in your class

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Silva" <low_sl2 at yahoo.com>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] SAturn engine swap

> We have a guy talking to TunerCat right now.  They don't seem to
> ecstatic about it.  I've been thinking of throwing some money their way
> but I dont like to give a company money to make something that they'll
> turn around and make money off of.  Which means I just paid for their
> R&D.
>
> Jeff Silva
> DifferentRacing.com
>
>
> --- David Allen <davida1 at hiwaay.net> wrote:
>
>>   Have you e-mailed TunerCat?  They have some def files that are not
>> listed
>> on the "supported ECM" list. They had a 2-bar def for the little
>> 1226869 I
>> am using in my car, but it is not listed on the site. As many Saturns
>> as are
>> out there, surely TunerCat would have a demand for this definition.
>>    Good luck with the turbo.  I ran into this buying what was
>> supposedly a
>> Spal (http://www.spalusa.com) radiator fan but it was a Chinese
>> counterfeit.
>> The motor was half the size of the real thing, and the plastic molded
>> fan
>> rotor was warped and out of balance.
>>   After being exposed to the heat of a radiator, the rotor warped so
>> badly
>> it got in the radiator. Thankfully the plastic was so cheap and soft
>> it
>> deformed before cutting the radiator core.
>>   And it was SUPER weak and would barely cool the 305 engine. Running
>> the
>> A/C was WAY out of the question...
>>   You could see where they had taken a real Spal fan and used it for
>> a
>> pattern to make a mold.  The Spal logo was still slightly visible, as
>> were
>> CAST IN vestiges of where the fan they copied had balancing weights
>> on it.
>> The fake one had cast-in "bumps" that were shaped like clip-on
>> balance
>> weights. Unreal.
>>   Later,
>> David
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: "Jeff Silva" <low_sl2 at yahoo.com>
>> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>> Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 5:55 PM
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] SAturn engine swap
>>
>>
>> > Thanks for checking out our website.  We aim to please. ;)
>> >
>> > We're still trying to get that company to take this turbo back.
>> But
>> > they're not answering their e-mails or phones.  So I'm stuck with a
>> > $205 freight bill for this turbo...
>> >
>> > Now can someone help me with this .BIN file I have of a Saturn
>> EPROM?
>> > :)
>> >
>> > http://www.differentracing.com/jeff/pcm/94_dohc_fed.bin
>> >
>> > Jeff Silva
>> > DifferentRacing.com
>> >
>> >
>> > --- David Allen <davida1 at hiwaay.net> wrote:
>> >
>> > >   Jeff, I like your Different Racing website! Found your Chinese
>> > > turbo story
>> > > particularly amusing. I can definately relate to that! I debated
>> on
>> > > wether
>> > > to buy a Turbonetics unit or a knock-off and am glad I chose the
>> real
>> > > McCoy.
>> > > Turbonetics knows their stuff and got me exactly the right turbo
>> for
>> > > the
>> > > application.
>> > >   Once you've done a certain job several times it goes quicker. I
>> > > certainly
>> > > see what you are claiming is possible on the engine R&I.
>> > >   Years ago (highschool age) a friend and I pulled the 440-T4
>> > > automatic
>> > > transaxle out of a FWD Buick Lesabre.  We dropped it out below,
>> > > letting the
>> > > engine hang by 2x4 boards and chain.  It was a very dangerous
>> > > exercise and
>> > > we broke some parts in the process. I would never recommend this
>> > > approach on
>> > > such a heavy transmission.  It is easier to pull the drivetrain
>> as an
>> > > assy
>> > > from above on these cars.
>> > >   These cars have a large heavy 6 cyl engine and 4 speed auto
>> trans.
>> > > The
>> > > board sagged and nothing lined back up.  We had to jack the
>> engine
>> > > around
>> > > and shim up the board to get it back into position.  After the
>> trans
>> > > was
>> > > reconnected with 2 bolts, the 2x4 broke.  The whole drivetrain
>> fell
>> > > into the
>> > > engine cradle and very nearly knocked the car off the stands. It
>> > > cracked one
>> > > "ear" of the trans bellhousing and bent the driveplate.  The car
>> ran
>> > > but
>> > > with a vibration in the engine.
>> > >   After that fiasco, we borrowed an engine lift and pulled the
>> > > assembly "the
>> > > right way" to replace the bent driveplate.  Live and learn!
>> > > David
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
>> > > From: "Jeff Silva" <low_sl2 at yahoo.com>
>> > > To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>> > > Sent: Monday, November 28, 2005 3:45 PM
>> > > Subject: Re: [Gmecm] SAturn engine swap
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > > Like I said before.  I've done this over a dozen times.  It can
>> be
>> > > > done.  You just use a load tilter.  It's easy.
>> > > >
>> > > > Jeff Silva
>> > > > DifferentRacing.com
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > --- Andrew Gibson <andrewsharyn at yahoo.com> wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > > Little tilt huh? Then why need the load tilter? I would like
>> to
>> > > see
>> > > > > any virgin engine get pulled out of a fwd car in less than 1
>> hour
>> > > > > without breaking anything in the process. Now offence Jeff
>> but
>> > > what
>> > > > > you are describing time wise is just not possible. Maybe you
>> > > could
>> > > > > tilt the motor enough to get it out the top. But that is
>> still a
>> > > lot
>> > > > > of work. I'll stick to dropping them out the bottom.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >   Oh, by the way I live in Utah. And I need to pull the motor
>> out
>> > > of
>> > > > > my donor truck this weekend before it snows again. I would
>> like
>> > > to
>> > > > > see pictures of how much tilt it take to get these out the
>> top
>> > > > > though.
>> > > > >
>> > > > >   Just for the record, Cinder blocks stacked in a pyramid
>> with
>> > > the
>> > > > > open end up and 2x4 on top to keep the pinchweld from digging
>> > > into
>> > > > > the mortar are far more stable than any jackstand out there.
>> > > > > Something about a wider base....
>> > > > >
>> > > > >
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