[Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

[Eck, Joel]

If the fins are basically straight so that airflow is not hampered, and there isn't 31 years of oil and dirt caked on it, then it's probably OK. Heat will transfer through the metal regardless, there isn't any magic coating that enables heat transfer.

That being said, if the compressor ended up losing bits of itself in the system, you don't want the trash that traveled through the system to be left in place to later become dislodged and eat up your brand new (or refurb'ed) compressor. IOW, it's the insides of it that I'd be far more concerned with than the outsides of it. If there's no evidence of 'black death' inside the lines, you might be ok.

I'd hose down the outside of it real well with brake cleaner (with the ports well capped off, just to be sure).  If you're still not sure about the insides of it, I've seen something that was billed as a system flush for things like condensers, lines, and evaporators, but I've never used it so I don't know how to use it or how well it works. Searching amazon for 'A/C system flush' results in good hits for it. Apparently you will need the liquid and a device for pushing the liquid through the system.

Thanks, 
Joel Eck 

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Jay Vessels
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 10:52
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

Hi there!

What is the preferred home method for flushing the condenser and evaporator?

Dad and I have done several R12->R134a conversions.  We change the 
orifice tube, receiver/dryer, and all the O-rings.  If the compressor is 
good, it stays, as well as the evaporator and condenser.  That said, 
there's a reason the R12 leaked out, so that needs to be addressed 
(unless it was the R4 compressor that blew up, which is a different 
discussion).

David's HFC152a conversion has piqued my interest.

My truck's 31 years old this month, and has all of its original hardware 
on it.  It's still holding R12, but the compressor has stopped 
compressing.  I'm replacing everything but the lines, evaporator, and 
condenser.

Dad's trying to get me to replace the condenser, too.  His argument is 
that it's been at the front of the truck, eating everything the road can 
throw at it for 31 years, and a new one not mashed full of debris that 
may not all come out even with a thorough cleaning would likely perform 
better.

Jay Vessels
1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8V6 TBI
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2007 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean, 3.0R


On 05/13/2013 11:36 AM, Aaron wrote:
> I have had good luck with just dropping in R134a in to late 70's GMC Evap /
> Thermal expansion valve systems.
> Typically all the o-rings get replaced, but only because they are SO OLD.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
> Of Gary Evans
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:15 AM
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>
> Not easily done from a chemical standpoint I suppose. It's not for lack of
> trying there is (or perhaps, was) billions of dollars to be made with an
> easy replacement.
>
> I have had very good luck with drop-is R-134a replacement on mid 80's
> Japanese vehicles. Dryer and oil change only - kept all the old hoses. It
> typically goes about 5 years between needing top-offs.
>
> -Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
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