[Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

[Aaron]

We have had good luck with a standard air nose with a rubber tip and a tank
that can be pressurized to 30 psi.
We fill the can with flush fluid, hook up the shop air through a pressure
regulator and filter, then pull the trigger.
We catch the fluid on the way out with a rag to look for rubber , metal
chunks and other crud. 
Several extra shots of filtered air, dry out the flush.

Just remember that every line, every condenser and every evaporator had oil
in it and will need the oil replaced.

I do NOT recommend flushing an accumulator, drier , expansion valve or
compressor. 
Back flushing can be done on an orifice tube, if it can't be removed. (F'ing
JEEP !)

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
Of Eck, Joel
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 12:52 PM
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

If the fins are basically straight so that airflow is not hampered, and
there isn't 31 years of oil and dirt caked on it, then it's probably OK.
Heat will transfer through the metal regardless, there isn't any magic
coating that enables heat transfer.

That being said, if the compressor ended up losing bits of itself in the
system, you don't want the trash that traveled through the system to be left
in place to later become dislodged and eat up your brand new (or refurb'ed)
compressor. IOW, it's the insides of it that I'd be far more concerned with
than the outsides of it. If there's no evidence of 'black death' inside the
lines, you might be ok.

I'd hose down the outside of it real well with brake cleaner (with the ports
well capped off, just to be sure).  If you're still not sure about the
insides of it, I've seen something that was billed as a system flush for
things like condensers, lines, and evaporators, but I've never used it so I
don't know how to use it or how well it works. Searching amazon for 'A/C
system flush' results in good hits for it. Apparently you will need the
liquid and a device for pushing the liquid through the system.

Thanks,
Joel Eck 

-----Original Message-----
From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf
Of Jay Vessels
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 10:52
To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

Hi there!

What is the preferred home method for flushing the condenser and evaporator?

Dad and I have done several R12->R134a conversions.  We change the orifice
tube, receiver/dryer, and all the O-rings.  If the compressor is good, it
stays, as well as the evaporator and condenser.  That said, there's a reason
the R12 leaked out, so that needs to be addressed (unless it was the R4
compressor that blew up, which is a different discussion).

David's HFC152a conversion has piqued my interest.

My truck's 31 years old this month, and has all of its original hardware on
it.  It's still holding R12, but the compressor has stopped compressing.
I'm replacing everything but the lines, evaporator, and condenser.

Dad's trying to get me to replace the condenser, too.  His argument is that
it's been at the front of the truck, eating everything the road can throw at
it for 31 years, and a new one not mashed full of debris that may not all
come out even with a thorough cleaning would likely perform better.

Jay Vessels
1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8V6 TBI
2006 Pontiac Solstice
2007 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean, 3.0R


On 05/13/2013 11:36 AM, Aaron wrote:
> I have had good luck with just dropping in R134a in to late 70's GMC 
> Evap / Thermal expansion valve systems.
> Typically all the o-rings get replaced, but only because they are SO OLD.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On 
> Behalf Of Gary Evans
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:15 AM
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>
> Not easily done from a chemical standpoint I suppose. It's not for 
> lack of trying there is (or perhaps, was) billions of dollars to be 
> made with an easy replacement.
>
> I have had very good luck with drop-is R-134a replacement on mid 80's 
> Japanese vehicles. Dryer and oil change only - kept all the old hoses. 
> It typically goes about 5 years between needing top-offs.
>
> -Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Gmecm mailing list
> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>
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