[Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

[David Allen]

Here is another video, charging my Rusty the Duke with HFC-152a

Watch at the end, I cut up and explain how the accumulator works.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4uAXDyICsA

Sincerely,
David


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Eck, Joel" <Joel.Eck at hp.com>
To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A


> If the fins are basically straight so that airflow is not hampered, and 
> there isn't 31 years of oil and dirt caked on it, then it's probably OK. 
> Heat will transfer through the metal regardless, there isn't any magic 
> coating that enables heat transfer.
>
> That being said, if the compressor ended up losing bits of itself in the 
> system, you don't want the trash that traveled through the system to be 
> left in place to later become dislodged and eat up your brand new (or 
> refurb'ed) compressor. IOW, it's the insides of it that I'd be far more 
> concerned with than the outsides of it. If there's no evidence of 'black 
> death' inside the lines, you might be ok.
>
> I'd hose down the outside of it real well with brake cleaner (with the 
> ports well capped off, just to be sure).  If you're still not sure about 
> the insides of it, I've seen something that was billed as a system flush 
> for things like condensers, lines, and evaporators, but I've never used it 
> so I don't know how to use it or how well it works. Searching amazon for 
> 'A/C system flush' results in good hits for it. Apparently you will need 
> the liquid and a device for pushing the liquid through the system.
>
> Thanks,
> Joel Eck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On 
> Behalf Of Jay Vessels
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 10:52
> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>
> Hi there!
>
> What is the preferred home method for flushing the condenser and 
> evaporator?
>
> Dad and I have done several R12->R134a conversions.  We change the
> orifice tube, receiver/dryer, and all the O-rings.  If the compressor is
> good, it stays, as well as the evaporator and condenser.  That said,
> there's a reason the R12 leaked out, so that needs to be addressed
> (unless it was the R4 compressor that blew up, which is a different
> discussion).
>
> David's HFC152a conversion has piqued my interest.
>
> My truck's 31 years old this month, and has all of its original hardware
> on it.  It's still holding R12, but the compressor has stopped
> compressing.  I'm replacing everything but the lines, evaporator, and
> condenser.
>
> Dad's trying to get me to replace the condenser, too.  His argument is
> that it's been at the front of the truck, eating everything the road can
> throw at it for 31 years, and a new one not mashed full of debris that
> may not all come out even with a thorough cleaning would likely perform
> better.
>
> Jay Vessels
> 1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8V6 TBI
> 2006 Pontiac Solstice
> 2007 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean, 3.0R
>
>
> On 05/13/2013 11:36 AM, Aaron wrote:
>> I have had good luck with just dropping in R134a in to late 70's GMC Evap 
>> /
>> Thermal expansion valve systems.
>> Typically all the o-rings get replaced, but only because they are SO OLD.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On 
>> Behalf
>> Of Gary Evans
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:15 AM
>> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>>
>> Not easily done from a chemical standpoint I suppose. It's not for lack 
>> of
>> trying there is (or perhaps, was) billions of dollars to be made with an
>> easy replacement.
>>
>> I have had very good luck with drop-is R-134a replacement on mid 80's
>> Japanese vehicles. Dryer and oil change only - kept all the old hoses. It
>> typically goes about 5 years between needing top-offs.
>>
>> -Gary
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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