[Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A

[carl-otto at cckengine.com]

David!

Thank you for sharing this information and for the detailed explanation 
and videos that makes it possible to do the same on my own cars some day.

Regards. Carl.


> Here is another video, charging my Rusty the Duke with HFC-152a
>
> Watch at the end, I cut up and explain how the accumulator works.
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i4uAXDyICsA
>
> Sincerely,
> David
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Eck, Joel" <Joel.Eck at hp.com>
> To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>
>
>> If the fins are basically straight so that airflow is not hampered, and
>> there isn't 31 years of oil and dirt caked on it, then it's probably OK.
>> Heat will transfer through the metal regardless, there isn't any magic
>> coating that enables heat transfer.
>>
>> That being said, if the compressor ended up losing bits of itself in the
>> system, you don't want the trash that traveled through the system to be
>> left in place to later become dislodged and eat up your brand new (or
>> refurb'ed) compressor. IOW, it's the insides of it that I'd be far more
>> concerned with than the outsides of it. If there's no evidence of 'black
>> death' inside the lines, you might be ok.
>>
>> I'd hose down the outside of it real well with brake cleaner (with the
>> ports well capped off, just to be sure).  If you're still not sure about
>> the insides of it, I've seen something that was billed as a system flush
>> for things like condensers, lines, and evaporators, but I've never used
>> it
>> so I don't know how to use it or how well it works. Searching amazon for
>> 'A/C system flush' results in good hits for it. Apparently you will need
>> the liquid and a device for pushing the liquid through the system.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Joel Eck
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On
>> Behalf Of Jay Vessels
>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 10:52
>> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>>
>> Hi there!
>>
>> What is the preferred home method for flushing the condenser and
>> evaporator?
>>
>> Dad and I have done several R12->R134a conversions.  We change the
>> orifice tube, receiver/dryer, and all the O-rings.  If the compressor is
>> good, it stays, as well as the evaporator and condenser.  That said,
>> there's a reason the R12 leaked out, so that needs to be addressed
>> (unless it was the R4 compressor that blew up, which is a different
>> discussion).
>>
>> David's HFC152a conversion has piqued my interest.
>>
>> My truck's 31 years old this month, and has all of its original hardware
>> on it.  It's still holding R12, but the compressor has stopped
>> compressing.  I'm replacing everything but the lines, evaporator, and
>> condenser.
>>
>> Dad's trying to get me to replace the condenser, too.  His argument is
>> that it's been at the front of the truck, eating everything the road can
>> throw at it for 31 years, and a new one not mashed full of debris that
>> may not all come out even with a thorough cleaning would likely perform
>> better.
>>
>> Jay Vessels
>> 1982 Chevrolet S-10 Sport, 2.8V6 TBI
>> 2006 Pontiac Solstice
>> 2007 Subaru Outback L.L. Bean, 3.0R
>>
>>
>> On 05/13/2013 11:36 AM, Aaron wrote:
>>> I have had good luck with just dropping in R134a in to late 70's GMC
>>> Evap
>>> /
>>> Thermal expansion valve systems.
>>> Typically all the o-rings get replaced, but only because they are SO
>>> OLD.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:gmecm-bounces at diy-efi.org] On
>>> Behalf
>>> Of Gary Evans
>>> Sent: Monday, May 13, 2013 11:15 AM
>>> To: gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>> Subject: Re: [Gmecm] OT - alternative refrigerant test... HFC152A
>>>
>>> Not easily done from a chemical standpoint I suppose. It's not for lack
>>> of
>>> trying there is (or perhaps, was) billions of dollars to be made with
>>> an
>>> easy replacement.
>>>
>>> I have had very good luck with drop-is R-134a replacement on mid 80's
>>> Japanese vehicles. Dryer and oil change only - kept all the old hoses.
>>> It
>>> typically goes about 5 years between needing top-offs.
>>>
>>> -Gary
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Gmecm mailing list
>>> Gmecm at diy-efi.org
>>> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/gmecm
>>>
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