[Wbo2] Can't get up and running

[Russ Hildebrand]

I may have missed something here. I see the post from Heero who seems to be 
stuck at the same point I am. He is talking about a resistor change that's 
needed if you're running the L2H2.

Now I have read that the CalR is "the cal resistor is
10x the resistor found in the NTK L1H1.  You need to
measure the cal resistor, divide by 10, and replace
with a substitute."
  Which resistor on my diy-wb --PCB (version #7) do I
change?
If I understand this correctly I change rcal # pin 9
from 270 ohms to 27 ohms? Or do you replace the rcal @
the sensor with a new resistor?  Ex:  if it measures
1200K ohms@ the sensor replace with 120Kohms?


I didn't make any change, so is that the issue?

-----Original Message-----
From:	Tim Marsteiner [SMTP:tmarstei at yahoo.com]
Sent:	Saturday, June 11, 2005 10:07 PM
To:	russellh911 at comcast.net
Subject:	RE: [Wbo2] Can't get up and running


--- Russ Hildebrand <russellh911 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Tim:
>
> I'm working on this on the bench with a 12 volt
> power supply, not in the
> car. I had this all in the car and it didn't work,
> so I took it back out
> this morning and I've been messing with it. I've
> only had 12.6 volts
> supplied at the max at any on time, so that might be
> the fundamental
> problem. With my test bench power supply, I start
> with 12.6 without the
> sensor, but when I attach the sensor the voltage
> drops.


It takes a fairly beefy power supply to drive this on
the bench. Remember it draws up to 1.5 A.


> I read what you
> said about plugging into a powered up circuit, so I
> won't do that again.
> You said the voltage should ramp up, is that as
> measured at J1?


Yes, J1 the heater+ voltage.


> I think I'll put this back in the car tomorrow and
> see if I can get more
> than 12.7 volts feeding the circuit and see if it
> comes on. I'll let you
> know.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Russ



		
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