NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?

[Bruce Plecan]

> >What I do is, epoxy the 5/8" heater hose fitting on the manifold shut,
and
> >then cure it at 200dF.  Then drill a 5/16" hole in it.  That is enough
for
> >heat and defrost, here in Ohio.
> so you restricted your supply to your heater to 5/16's internally w/ no
> other visible mods...I like that:-)  what kind of epoxy specifically do
you
> use?

JB Weld, or about anything gray <g>.

>   If you want really good control over the
> >heater coolant, use a heater valve off a 87 Buick GN/Ttype, it's vacuum
> >applied, On, type.
> don't follow this too well, this is an inline valve in the heater supply
> line?  vacuum applied but what triggers the application of the vaccuum? an
> electric switch?  or do you mean at high vaccuum (low rpm's/throttle) it's
> open and it closes under WOT? off of manifold vaccuum?  That would be
slick
> as well.

Lots of cars use vacuum motors for defroster, heat etc, just T into that if
that's what you have to operate the heater valve.

> >  If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a
hole
> >in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.
Then
> >drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat.
> missed this one, better review my coolant circuit schematics in my Haynes
> manual, I have hole's in my thermostat , Robert Shaw hiflo unit to
> accomodate my stewart water pump setup. Or do you mean bleed off a line
> from the thermo/water neck  housing of 1/8" supply for the heater and
> return it into the water pump?

There is a hole in the block/passenger side behind the water pump (that is
about 3/8", that is a water bypass), just tap and plug it, then drill a hole
in it to reduce it's size.  Period.
>
> >    The above is just what works for me.
> >Bruce
>
> Loving these ideas guys!  Can't wait to get my car back from the tranny
> guru to start on one of them.
>
> Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada