alternative engines, now Hemi

Tedscj at aol.com Tedscj at aol.com
Tue May 25 14:07:08 GMT 1999


In a message dated 5/24/99, 7:06:35 PM, diy_efi at efi332.eng.ohio-state.edu 
writes:
<<You need to check the numbers on the block to be sure, a lot of engines get
swapped out over time. Secondly, to make that old hemi perform you have to 
spend
bundles of bucks. Those old long and flimsy stock rockers have to go and the
replacements are very expensive (big time), along with triple valve springs 
that
you need; that is  unless you want a low rev truck engine. Then you'll need to
replace the old worn pistons with some forged slugs (you'll have to bore it 
anyway
to straighten out those old tapered-by-time cylinders). Add at least a roller
chain timing set (or gear drive). Then comes the cam - you gotta be careful 
here.
Those old hemi's can be made to give you gobs of mid and top and power with 
the
right cam - but you'll give away bottom end torque. So plan on driving around 
with
a 2800-3000 stall convertor (and not the old slush box that came with that 
hemi) -
good luck finding an adapter. Outside of cleaning the mice nests out of the
intakes, just clean them up a bit - don't even look at the cost of replacement
race heads unless you're REAL serious.

In short, you'll be Time, Money and Power ahead by picking up a factory long 
block
and building from there. Much stronger bottom end for one thing and they 
breathe
like crazy!!

Or- put less then half as much money in your existing wedge and you'll have 
almost
as much power, certainly more usable street power. There was/is no magic in 
those
old hemi's (in 1958/59 my brother ran a 392 in his '40 Ford coupe and 
developed
fair sized arm muscles from steering that old nose heavy beast).
rap>>



I'd have to agree.  The only reasons to have one of those old hemis are... It 
looks neat,  It sounds neat,  and you can say "I have a Hemi under the hood!"
Just don't try to race anybody!
Ted



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