cold engine driveability - modify water temp resistance?

[Franc Buxton]

Aribert_Neumann at magna.on.ca wrote:
> 
> I have mated a Bosch M1.5 EFI from a 2.0L GME (Opel) engine to a 2.3L formerly
> carb'ed engine.  Much to my pleasant surprise it works surprisingly well with
> out any changes to any sensors or to changing any look-up tables in the ECU (I
> am not knowledgeable in that area).  THe engine idles good when cold but will
> die if the throttle is lifted abruptly (i.e. lifting off of the throttle when
> approaching a red light - I have gotten good at slipping the clutch just before
> the vehicle comes to a stop to restart the engine).  

	(Stuff deleted...)
> A
> more expensive alternative would be to replace the injectors with a higher flow
> rated unit.    I understand that changing the ECU state tables is a more elegant
> solution but that is not a viable option based on my lack of knowledge and the
> ECU in the vehicle is the only one that I have and I would need to source a
> spare from Europe if my original were to become non-functional.
> 
> patiently waiting in digest mode for any direction / suggestions
> 

	A much cheaper alternative to changing the injectors might be to increase
the fuel pressure. Injector flow is to a large extent proportional to fuel
pressure. I have done this on my Rover Metro (UK), fitted with a 1.8-litre
engine in place of the 1.4 and using the 1.4 engine management. Symptoms
like the ones you mention almost completely disappeared, performance, emissions
and fuel economy are all very good. Fuel pressure increase in this particular
case
was from 3.2 bar to 4.75 bar, surprisingly somewhat more than the proportional
difference in capacity, but that's what it needed! Provided the engines
concerned
are of the same series, I suspect this will work for you, too. Good luck!

		Franc.
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