Wiring harness construction technique question

[David Hunt]

I would like to put emphasis on one line below.

"Never mix terminal plating to avoid corrosion problems."

Gold terminals are not completely gold, but rather a flash on another
metallic surface (like nickel) and if they are mated with a contact of
another technology, it may be very detrimental to the system.

Gold to gold. Tin to tin....etc.

dh

----- Original Message -----
From: "Shirley, Mark R" <MarkRShirley at eaton.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2001 7:29 AM
Subject: RE: Wiring harness construction technique question


> Some clarification of Roy's post for those in the US.
> Modern OEM wiring is intended for low cost, but they have
> to use componentry good enough to avoid warranty costs.
> Gold terminals ARE preferred on signal wires of low voltage.
> Never mix terminal platings to avoid corrosion problems.
> Connector disconnect/connect life cycles on US spec terminals is
> higher than 10 IMHO, more like 100 cycles.
> Most aftermarket connectors are not weatherproof.  The typical ring
> terminal would be bad in a corrosive environment (the rust belt)
> Most US OEM wire is NOT PVC. OEM's use XLPE(cross linked polyethelene)
> which does not cold flow like PVC under a weatherseal.  I know of
> no full service vendor in the US using a PVC or PTFE covering for
> their major customers.  This includes Packard/Delphi, Yazaki, Siemens,
> Tyco, etc.  Most everyone is using corrugated tubing with various tape
> coverings depending on Temp/environment.  Note that not all split
corrugated
> tubing is the same.  There are several different types with different temp
> ratings.  Tape has a temp spec also.
> For the average guy in this list, if it's a daily driver, just use a
> Delphi/Packard
> weatherpak connector for your critical connections, cover wires with high
> temp
> tubing and tape and call it good.
> If it's a weekend warrior / summer hero type car, you can get away with
lots
> worse
> connectors/terminals, Zip tied bundles, etc.
> And if you live in the rust belt, and drive it in the winter, (I do) God
> help you.  Get the best weatherproof connectors, protect all your wires
from
> abrasion,
> don't puncture the wires for testing (it WILL be a future failure).
> Moisture / salt will actually wick into the wiring through any punctures
and
> become a
> corrosion failure at that spot.
>
> >
> > Then you have the wire, this falls into several
> > catagories.  Most OEM's are using thin walled PVC
> > which is a cheap grade of wire when compared to what
> > the racing industry are using, this being thin walled
> > PTFE at at least 20 times the price and here in the UK
> > is classed as type 44 or 45 which is an aircraft grade
> > wire.
> >
> > Most OEM,s are not to concerned by the loom finish, it
> > is space tapped where it is out of sight but a mix of
> > taping and corregated split PVC tubbing is used around
> > the engine bay to make it a little tiddyier.
> >
> > I use a range of finishes from PVC tubing, lacing cord
> > to the expensive heatshrink looms using moulded
> > transitions.
> >
> > Looms should be fitted so as they do not obstruct
> > access to any major components, and so that they
> > cannot be accidently damaged when say removing an
> > engine.  I often use an engine dress loom that plugs
> > staight into a connector on my bulkhead.
> >
> >          thanks Roy  ( Spectric's Ltd )
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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