turbos

[Shannen Durphey]

Hey, Santi...

FYI, the 2.2 is a dern good engine.  We've got 190k + on our 93 2.2, and still
on the original head gasket!
Oil consumption is a non issue, fuel mileage is great, wristpin noise is usual
for a 2.2 but is far less than some!

Oh, yeah, you wanna watch out for wristpin problems with the 2.2.  Sounds like a
light knocking, worse at idle.  I got a rebuildable core (complete engine) for
$30 because it had wristpin knock.  And at only 70k mi, too.

I would consider using the thickest head gasket possible, new head bolts (I
think these are torque to yield type), polish the combustion chambers.  I'm
leaning toward learning about connecting rod notching to keep the piston crowns
cool and to keep the pins well lubed.  

Another issue which has not been resolved is with the 2.2l injectors.  They are
a completely different style injectors than anything commonly used by GM.  They
are a low profile, bottom feed injector.  I have not found any flow info, nor
have I spent any money to have my spare injectors flow tested.  I also do not
know how they will respond to increased fuel pressure.  If these injectors can
not deliver enough fuel, I do not know if larger replacements exist.  Also, the
injectors for the 7749 are low impedance type (IIRC).  I remembered that I do
not know if the 2.2 injectors are the same type.  If you send me a note
tomorrow, I will measure the resistance of one of the spare 2.2 injectors which
I have.  Pistons are available from Federal Mogul.  There are two different part
numbers in my older catalogue.  One is for 1990-1991 cars, cast aluminum, part
no. 569P.  The other is for 92-93 (possibly more years), hypereutectic aluminum,
part no. H637P.  My catalogue is dated 1996, and these pistons are listed as a
new item.  They should be commonly available now.  Both pistons provide the same
compression ratio given the same size combustion chamber.  One option may be to
have the rod journals offset ground, but it takes a good crank grinder to do
this.  Another option may be to use something like techline coatings on the
pistons and chambers to reduce detonation tendency.  Sorry, I don't have the URL
to techline, but they are sold through Summitt Racing and Speedway Motors..

I understand the modular design.  My approach is to buy and rebuild an engine on
the bench, design everything to be as close to drop in as possible, then do the
swap.  It's been a good approach, since I've been collecting pieces for years
and the girlfriend can still drive the car instead of waiting for me to get the
project finished.

Shannen


Santi Udomkesmalee wrote:
> 
> The engine is a '98 2.2l 4cyl chevy.  It's got quite a bit of miles on it,
> 76k or so.  I have no intention of running high boost, I just wanted to do
> some thing to give the car a little more pep, and this seemed like something
> I'd learn a lot from doing.  I'm thinking that it might be wise to rebuild
> the engine, just on account of the fact that i think it's starting to go
> through oil a little faster than it should for a '98, and after a few more
> trips from college to home (upstate NY - so. cal.) it will have quie a bit
> of miles.  Aside from obvious time reasons (it is my daily driver), my main
> motivation for avoiding a rebuild is cash.
> 
> If I decide to go through with a rebuild before trying to do a turbo
> install, what parts can you recommend that aren't too expensive.  I can't
> imagine any aftermarket people make parts for this engine, so how do I get
> new high quality pistons.  Also, If I do a rebuild, should I go to a lower
> compression piston?  My main problem with that is that the whole turbo setup
> that I'm trying to design needs to be quite modular, becuase I'll have to
> take it out one a year to pass smog (stupid california), so if I lower
> compression, I'll still need a driveable car w/o turbo.  Thanks in advance
> for any help you guys can give me.
> 
> -santi
> 
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