[Diy_efi] Re: [Efi332] Fw: wide-band O2 sensor comparison
Garfield Willis
garwillis at msn.com
Tue Aug 13 14:48:03 GMT 2002
On Mon, 12 Aug 2002 12:43:06 -0600, Andrew Brownsword <asword at telus.net>
wrote:
>Well in my case I think this will be sufficient... I'm converting =
airflow=20
>meters so I can use a commercial A/F meter (which I can borrow for short=
time)=20
>to get some baseline readings from the stock VAF, and then use that to=20
>calibrate the display I'm building to interpret the DIY-WB's voltage =
signal. =20
>The result I can then use to tune on the MAF I'm converting to.
Sounds like you're just asking for trouble. Ask yourself how much $$ and
time you've got in your motor. If anything, with something as sloppy as
the dweeb, I would ALWAYS check it directly with a real AFR meter, not
use some assumed "same conditions" with an intermediate MAF/VAF result.
>I can see the argument that this isn't a precise device, but really is =
there=20
>any alternative for anything close to this amount of money? The DIY-WB =
is=20
>going to be more useful than the typical HEGO-based gadget, and that's =
enough=20
>for a hobbiest like me.
If you don't mind your AFR error band being a WHOLE AFR, and your engine
isn't valuable enough to spend $500 on a decent meter + sensor (that's a
total for both), then I guess you're stuck with either a NB w/LEDs or
the dweeb. Strikes me that spending $150-200 on a dweeb + sensor is
false economy. A whole AFR is a whole lotta slop to fool yourself with.
The difference has now come down to about $300, between a POS and a
commercial meter with industry-standard accuracy. Your choice. Oh, and
don't forget the support; these dweeb guys don't seem to know the first
thing about this technology or how to use it other than in
horseshoe-close tuning. You might think about how much you're going to
learn about using AFR sensing to tune, from dweebs like that.
Being at 12AFR and thinking you're at 11.5 and have a lot more rich to
pull out than you actually do is also just asking for trouble. So is
thinking your at 12.2, when you can't be sure you're any closer than
between 11.7 and 12.7, is also asking for trouble. Those former numbers
came directly from BruceP's data, the latter ones by implication, not
something I made up.
If that's good enough for you, you're NOT in racing or real proformance
work. I wouldn't even call that 'hobbyist' level; more like 'shadetree'
level. You might as well save your $200 and use your buttOmeter and your
ear for knock detection. You won't do much better than that with the
dweebOmeter.
Gar
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