DIY WBO2 construction

Wed Jan 16 03:13:40 GMT 2002

Thank you very much Steve for your assistance. I've made the changes you
pointed out. I guess I was going too fast and over looked that part of the
schematic.

I did some more testing today using a smaller lamp rated at 12V ~12W. The
lamp will slowly ramp up to 1.3amps and the LED will illuminate after about
8 secs and remain on. I assume the circuit is now functioning correctly.

My next test will now be with the actually WB O2 sensor. However, since that
Connector groupbuy is still quite a ways from completion, I'm wondering how
you guys are currently connecting the WB sensor to the DIY board? Any
'clean' installation suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I can't find
a female connector locally from any junk yard unfortunately.

Here's some pics of the completed board.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00098.jpg
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00100.jpg
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00101.jpg
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00102.jpg
http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00103.jpg

Crescent Kao
Director of Marketing and Sales
www.c-speedracing.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <Steve.Flanagan at VerizonWireless.com>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 11:27 AM
Subject: RE: DIY WBO2 construction

> Kao,
>
> One thing I noticed was that you need to put D6,Q3 and D7,Q4 in thermal
> contact.  This means you need to mount the diodes about 1/4 inch elevated,
> and then bend the transistors (Q3,Q4) and the diodes (D6,D7) until they
> touch.  Q3 should touch D6, Q4 should touch D7, you can use heat sink
> compound to make sure you have good thermal contact.
>
> There was a note on the schematic that mentioned this.
>
>
> B.    Item 3 is a 25uf 25v capacitor, however the one sent to me was a
22uf
> 25v, can it be used it instead?  THIS IS FINE
>
> C.    Item 15 is a LM386Z-1.2 transistor, however, the one sent to me was
a
> LM285Z-1.2, will that pose a problem?  SHOULD BE FINE, HOWEVER, WHY NOT
TAKE
> A LOOK AT THE DATASHEET THAT DESCRIBES THESE DEVICES AND DO A COMPARISON.
> DATASHEETS CAN BE FOUND AT DIGIKEY.
>
> Anyone care to answer his other q's below.
>
> SF
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Crescent Kao [mailto:crescent at c-speedracing.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2002 9:14 PM
> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> Subject: DIY WBO2 construction
>
>
>
>
> Hello everyone,
>   This is my first public email to everyone on this list. I would like to
> take this opportunity to thank all of you for providing a great resource
for
> the DIY community. I've been following the WB02 for the past year or so
and
> I've finally received and built the first kit from the last group buy. I'm
> looking forward to using it, however I have a few questions regarding the
> construction and certain parts that were specified on the parts list
versus
> the parts that were actually sent to me.
>
> I've attached a pic of the board I just finished (not sure if they will
> attach on the mailing list but you can view them here), my concern is the
> following:
>
> http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00031.jpg
> http://www.c-speedracing.com/temppics/diy_wbo2/dsc00032.jpg
>
>
>  Item  Quantity  Reference                 Part
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
> ---
>     1       3    C1,C3,C4              10uf 25v
>     2       2    C2,C8                   0.1uf 25v
>     3       1    C5                        25uf 25V
>     4       2    C6,C16                 10uf 15V
>     6       3    C9,C13,C14           0.1uf 12v
>   15       1    D8                        LM385Z-1.2
>
>
> A.    You'll notice on the PCB that at C2,  0.1uf 25v disc was used (item
> 2), however at position C8,  0.1uf 12v was used (item 6). Only one (Item
2)
> 0.1uf 25v disc was sent to me, however four (item 6) 0.1uf 12v were sent
but
> only 3 are specified from the parts list, so there was one left over which
I
> assumed would be used to replace C8. Will this work? Or do I need replace
C8
> with a 0.1uf 25v unit?
>
> B.    Item 3 is a 25uf 25v capacitor, however the one sent to me was a
22uf
> 25v, can it be used it instead?
>
> C.    Item 15 is a LM386Z-1.2 transistor, however, the one sent to me was
a
> LM285Z-1.2, will that pose a problem?
>
> D.    Position C1, C3, and C4 specify a 10uf 25v capacitor (item 1)
however
> if you look at my photo, C3 and C4 are physically a different shape than
C1
> but they are 10uf 25v units also. C6 and C16 are suppose to be 10uf 15v
> capacitors, however i'm using 10uf 25v units instead (just like C1). The
> reason I did this is because the photo of the PCB on the DIY webpage shows
> that C3 and C4 are also physically different than C1 so I did the same
with
> mine. I had three 10uf 25v cylindrical shaped peices and two 10uf 25v ball
> shaped pieces. Is this ok?
>
> E.   U1 in my pic is shown with the metal heat sink side facing upwards,
is
> that correct?
>
> Thanks for your assistance.
>
>
> Crescent Kao
> Director of Marketing and Sales
> www.c-speedracing.com
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
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