[Diy_efi] Use O2 sensor on motorcycle?

[bcroe at juno.com]

That 14.4V is probably the fully charged voltage.  If you put a 
heavy load on it (one hour discharge rate) it will start to drop
almost immediately.  However, adding one or 2 cells from a 
second battery might indeed keep the voltage high enough 
to run most of an hour.  Don't go overboard on cell count, or 
you'll burn up the heater regulator (plenty of heat sink is a 
good idea).  Using a pair of identical batteries in parallel 
will likely help a lot.  

We used to switch in an extra "end" cell when the voltage 
dropped off in the 'phone business.

If you are ready to add components, let me suggest 
another approach.  Are we talking a rectified but unregulated 
output capable of providing around 40 watts at 14V to 
headlight/tail light?  First check the polarity of the power 
very carefully.  Put about a 10,000 ufd capacitor across 
the power and see what kind of voltage you get with the 
lights on.  Observe + to + carfully on the power to caps if 
you don't want them to explode.  If you are getting 12-15 
volts with the lights on, you should have plenty of power 
for a DIY-WB with the lights off.  If the voltage goes up 
quite a bit, you'll need a good WB heat sink, or maybe a 
pre regulator, and don't leave the lights on long.  If you 
can't find the caps, I have some around here.

Bruce Roe

On Tue, 4 Jun 2002 12:04:53 -0600 "Sven" 
<svenc at qwest.net> writes:> 

> I have access to cordless drill batteries 14.4V 1.7 Amp-hours.  
> Should these not work for at least 30 minutes with the DIY-WB ?

> Sven


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