[Diy_efi] Re: My WB doesn't pass the test: The return...

[rr]

Good to hear the news. Raw propane (unlit) or butane from a lighter
will drive the sensor rich. Need calibrated gases other then that.

If have access to argon (TIG welding) that will get you real close
to stoich.

BobR.


Renaud wrote:
> 
> My WB passed all the tests!
> I soldered back R39 to the PCB and it passed everything! Thanks a lot for
> the help: It was the first time I used a soldering iron for electronic
> parts! I made it :-)
> I will get a sensor this week and try it. How can I test it beside free
> air? I heard of propane: How do you do this?
> 
> Thanks again
> Renaud.
> 
> Thanks so much Bob,
> U2 and U3 are socketed, so I will be able to do the test easily.
> Hopefully they are not bad, because I had the parts from Steve and I won't
> be able to replace them by buying locally... Anyway, it was my first
> electronic experience, so probabilities are in favor of a solder short :-)
> 
> Regards,
> Renaud.
> 
>  >
>  > My WB doesn't pass TEST 26:
>  > Heater circuit powered up, J7 to U2 pin 13: I have 0v!!! (instead of
>  > 0.9/1.2v).
>  >
> With the heater ready LED on and the voltage at U3 pin 5 < .1V,
> there is either a solder short or U3 or U2 is bad.
> If U3 is socketed remove it from the circuit & re-test. If it passes
> then U3 is bad.
> If it does not pass, then a solder short exists or U2 is bad. You
> can remove U2 to see if it is bad or a solder short exists.
> BobR.
> 
> _______________________________________________

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