[Diy_efi] Re: My WB doesn't pass the test: The return...

[Bobby Riggs]

Actually if you use a propane torch on low, and
vary the distance from the VERY blue (close to
torch) to the heat portion you can go from Rich
to lean... the closer, the richer.  Simple test
to see if the sensor 'works' since you can't tell
really if its 'good' or not :)

--- rr <RRauscher at nni.com> wrote:
> Good to hear the news. Raw propane (unlit) or
> butane from a lighter
> will drive the sensor rich. Need calibrated
> gases other then that.
> 
> If have access to argon (TIG welding) that will
> get you real close
> to stoich.
> 
> BobR.
> 
> 
> Renaud wrote:
> > 
> > My WB passed all the tests!
> > I soldered back R39 to the PCB and it passed
> everything! Thanks a lot for
> > the help: It was the first time I used a
> soldering iron for electronic
> > parts! I made it :-)
> > I will get a sensor this week and try it. How
> can I test it beside free
> > air? I heard of propane: How do you do this?
> > 
> > Thanks again
> > Renaud.
> > 
> > Thanks so much Bob,
> > U2 and U3 are socketed, so I will be able to
> do the test easily.
> > Hopefully they are not bad, because I had the
> parts from Steve and I won't
> > be able to replace them by buying locally...
> Anyway, it was my first
> > electronic experience, so probabilities are
> in favor of a solder short :-)
> > 
> > Regards,
> > Renaud.
> > 
> >  >
> >  > My WB doesn't pass TEST 26:
> >  > Heater circuit powered up, J7 to U2 pin
> 13: I have 0v!!! (instead of
> >  > 0.9/1.2v).
> >  >
> > With the heater ready LED on and the voltage
> at U3 pin 5 < .1V,
> > there is either a solder short or U3 or U2 is
> bad.
> > If U3 is socketed remove it from the circuit
> & re-test. If it passes
> > then U3 is bad.
> > If it does not pass, then a solder short
> exists or U2 is bad. You
> > can remove U2 to see if it is bad or a solder
> short exists.
> > BobR.
> > 
> >
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