[Diy_efi] : tuned port manifolds

[Bruce]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jesse Ruppel" <ruppeljw at capital.net>
Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] : tuned port manifolds
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: diy_efi-admin at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-admin at diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Bruce
> > Turbo at mid engine, large heavy cast manifolds.
> > If they have a dual scroll housing then use it.
> > Turbos are about heat.  All them pretty headers and such have huge
amounts
> > of suface area, and radiate lots of heat that could be used by the
turbo.
> > If you have a stock cast manifold, might just really smooth it up
> > to reduce it's surface area, and use that.
> > Bruce

> This is an excellent point that I did have in the back of my head, but I
> wasn't quite sure if the heat or pressure dominated.

If you're really into investigating this, might hit a few tractor pulls, and
get a pit pass.  Often they keep the engine covers down when in public,
there are some interesting ideas.   While a diesel puller might seem
prehistoric, some of em old farmers take pulling really seriously, and while
they haven't read Heywood, have built numerous combinations of things,
trying to find out what works for them.   And some put like $25K into that
dumb ol engine.   FWIW, Alan Locheeds program calls for out tractor to run 2
1/4 - 2 1/2" ID Headers (436 CID, 60 PSI Booost), we're kinda stuck at using
the 1 3/4" square stock log manifold.   I've also seen an identical engine
to ours, with 2 1/4" headers, just not have any low end.  Admittedly we run
just the opposite of what you do.  We start at 6K, but must be able to
pull-down to lower rpm to get a full pull where as you start at a lower rpm
and have to build from that.
   I'm also running a 60 series turbo on my 3.8 v6 and more wouldn't be too
much to handle.   2/3s of the reasons people say it won't work is from some
one who had poor tuning skills not being able to get a given combo right.
Bruce


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