[Diy_efi] DTC 11 and 34

Mike niche
Tue May 24 13:01:13 UTC 2005 

At 07:39 PM 24/05/05, you wrote:
>11- crank(cam) angle sensor
>34- knock sensor

Interesting, those are the same numbers as the VL Commodore
with the Nissan RB30 engine...

Mostly u can ignore 34 unless it comes up repeatedly. ie Its
a limit warning for the ECU to retard not necessarily a sensor
fault - but it might be ;)

I mean, clear the fault report, go for drive and if 34 comes up
each time then consider better (higher octane) fuel or look
at mixture etc. I couldnt be bothered and removed the knock
sensor and replaced the input with a circuit to simulate the
impedance - so 34 never comes up for me and I just use
PULP most of the time. Having the head off after 200,000K
and I see no sign of knock, though I havent checked my
big ends (yet) it does seem to run ok with same oil usage
as it had when I bought it in 1989...

11 is a worry as it means ECU has found loss of sync or noise
on crank angle signals. Highly recommend KEEP ignition leads
well away from the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). Many of these
failed in VL commodores - partly due to excessive heat on the turbo
models (they ran sizzle hot) and mainly due to corona discharge
or electric field effect from deteriorating ignition leads close to 
any low voltage CAS signal leads...

However, do same thing with the fault report for 11, clear it and
check again...

Rgds

Mike





>Citando Pablo Lamsis <pablojr at comfsm.fm>:
>
> Hello all,
> Got a Nissan Vanette with engine SR20 model 1998. I've got DTC 11 and 34
> coming up and the engine just die. Ever encountered this problem? Pls help.
> Juls
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 4:51 PM
> Subject: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
> 
> 
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> >
> > Today's Topics:
> >
> >    1. Re: swap part questions (Mike V)
> >    2. Introduction (John Christensen)
> >    3. Re: injector sizes 1998 vortec 454 (Jim Butterfield)
> >    4. Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> >       (Marcello A. Belloli)
> >    5. Re: swap part questions (David Allen)
> >
> >
> > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 1
> > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 09:16:42 -0400
> > From: Mike V <diyefi at enzoco.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20050521091107.00c30af0 at enzoco.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> >
> > At 09:53 PM 5/18/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/transmount.jpg
> > >
> > >This is the stock '98 4L60E mount.  My tunnel doesn't have quite as much
> > >room as the pickup did, I'd like to find a mount that's about an inch
> > >shorter.  I thought a Camaro might have something shorter but it's
> > >completely different, at least in '98.  Any suggestions for a different
> > >year or model that might put the trans closer to the cross member?
> >
> > Have you already made full use of the trusty sledge-O-matic on the trans
> > tunnel?
> >
> >
> >
> > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/airbox.jpg
> > >
> > >The stock air inlet has some kind of box attached, about 6"x6"x6", for
> > >noise reduction?  Doesn't fit under the hood, so had to go.  Any clever
> > >ideas for filling the hole where it connects?  A 2" PVC cap almost fits
> > >but is just too small.
> >
> > I'm not getting the big picture on the airbox setup.
> > If you can send me some more pics or diagrams, i might have
> > some tubing parts I can send you.
> > Most of my spares are 3 inch I think.
> > MIke V
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 2
> > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 09:36:38 -0500
> > From: "John Christensen" <johncgg at comcast.net>
> > Subject: [Diy_efi] Introduction
> > To: "EFI-DIY List" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Message-ID: <001901c55e12$81a629e0$660fa8c0 at hpmedia>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Hello everyone!
> > I have been lurking on the list a while. It's obvious that I am a real
> > newbie on the Fuel Injection front.
> >
> > I have had my 1984 El Camino for about 12 years. It became a project about
> 6
> > years ago. It's also a daily driver (for lack of funds). The project is
> > documented in the signature file.
> >
> > I recently had to convert from a Carter AFB carb setup, to TBI, in order
> to
> > pass emissions testing in the Chicago area. I had passed the last 2 rounds
> > with fine tuning (barely), but the standards are stricter now. The
> emissions
> > controls have been modified or excluded for the most part, by the previous
> > owner, when it was in Iowa, and there was no testing.
> >
> > After the conversion, I passed with Flying colors, and should not have to
> > worry about this in the years to come.
> >
> > There was a recent thread on the air intake, and I wanted to show what we
> > did on my son's 1996 Bonneville for cold air. I used the Electrical
> conduit,
> > and I want to say it was 3", but it fit perfectly in the rubber flex, that
> > houses the sensor for the system. (Intake Air Temp?). See:
> > http://home.comcast.net/~sk8nate/intake.htm
> > Time to clean that filter.... maybe this afternoon.
> >
> > Now for the series of newbie questions.....
> > This is the conversion: http://www.myelcamino.net/tbi1.htm (4 pages) The
> > part numbers are on a chart pictured on the first page (click for a larger
> > view). They are basically the numbers suggested by the Painless
> Performance
> > kit for wiring this conversion.
> >
> > I need to make sure I have a complete set of new plugs, cap and rotor to
> > have a base line. But as I said $$ does not come easy at the moment. Once
> I
> > have this done, I want to have a systematic approach to making it run
> > better, and I think this list can help.
> >
> > I have some hesitation, and some trouble holding a consistent speed. Of
> > great annoyance, is the fact that the TCC engages about 30 mph when trying
> > to drive a steady 30 or 35 mpg, it kicks in & out a lot. I have a switch,
> to
> > turn this off, on the dash. I would like it to kick in more at 40 to 45.
> > Also, when the TCC is engaged, and I try to accelerate abruptly, there is
> a
> > real nasty time lag before it disengages, or kicks down. It is much better
> > with the switch off, but I wondered if there is anything that can be done
> > about the responsiveness of this feature. I assume it is the MAP sensor
> > input that controls it. Would a different sensor help?
> >
> > I have a 1 wire O2 sensor, and I really want to put in a 3 or 4 wire
> sensor.
> > I have some recommendations for that one. The sensor is welded in just
> past
> > the shorty header collector, and may not be getting enough heat to work
> > right (is my theory, but help me here ;) Do you think this is where I
> should
> > start?
> >
> > Could the Throttle position sensor have an effect on these functions? I
> have
> > tossed around replacing both that, and the IAC, because it is a little
> > unsteady at idle, even after resetting the IAC.
> >
> > Could different injectors help overall performance? Or would it be a waste
> > of time on such a low pressure system?
> >
> > Is there anyone on the list that burns chips for the ECM, that could
> tailor
> > it for a 350, .030 over, TH350C Transmission with a slightly modified
> > throttle valve spring (it responds a little quicker, but does not shift
> > hard). I have a stock cam, shorty headers, dual exhaust (2.25"?), dual
> plane
> > intake, cold air through the cowl. The thermostat is a 195 now, but the
> > engine really liked the 180 that I had before the emissions fiasco. What
> > would a set of custom chips cost?
> >
> > I know this is wide open, and there are a lot of questions. Please let me
> > know if I am in the right place at all. I don't want to be intruding on
> your
> > list, by being off topic.
> > Thank you in advance for your input.
> >
> > JC
> >
> > ---
> > John Christensen     St. Charles, IL
> > 1984 El Camino, 355 TBI
> > National El Camino Owners Association #042
> > http://www.myelcamino.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 3
> > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 08:14:16 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: Jim Butterfield <jimbutterfield at yahoo.com>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] injector sizes 1998 vortec 454
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Message-ID: <20050521151416.91193.qmail at web52707.mail.yahoo.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Grand prixs use 36# units... if you want to upgrade, and run about the
> same fuel pres... 55-58lbs.... you chould check to see injector PW and if
> that number is up in the low 20-22IPW then they are maxed out....
> >
> > jim
> >
> > Scott Peitzsch <jlg-sep at comcast.net> wrote:
> >
> > @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
> mso-header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; mso-paper-source:
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> Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY:
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> >  text-underline: single}SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext;
> FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-compose; mso-style-noshow: yes;
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> yes}SPAN.GramE { mso-style-name: ""; mso-gram-e: yes}DIV.Section1 { page:
> Section1}I had a set of these a while back and after a great deal of
> digging, found multiple
> > sources that indicated they flow 22#/hr @ 58PSI.  Unfortunately, that
> doesn't
> > make them particularly useful for even a mild engine buildup.
> >
> > -Scott
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Brendan Patten
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:32 PM
> > Subject: [Diy_efi] injector sizes 1998 vortec 454
> >
> >
> >
> > I've got a set of injectors from a 1998 Vortec 454 Chevrolet engine, does
> anyone have any idea what the flow rate @ psi is?
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> >  Make Yahoo! your home page
> > -------------- next part --------------
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> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 4
> > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 20:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
> > From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
> > Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Message-ID:
> > <11600.202.57.160.158.1116732631.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> >
> > Hello Everyone,
> >      I'm still working on a datalogger project.  Been doing a lot of the
> > software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
> > vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project.  I'm using a
> > PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger.  I've got just about
> > everything working.  The one place I'm having problem is the
> > understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
> >      Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors, that will allow
> > for an accurate account of timing?  I've been looking at two type of
> > injector firing.  Low resistance injectors, which use a driver that
> > duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep the current
> > within limits.  And Higher resistance ones where the resistance alone
> > keeps the current down.  Now how do you look at firing time of an
> > injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
> >      I guess I have one more question too - What is the best way to
> > connect to a circuit like an injector driver output?  I figure I only
> > really need timing information.  I want to keep the voltage between
> > 0-5 volts and apply as little load to the circuit as possible.
> >      After looking at this I can understand why my multimeter that has a
> > PulseWidth setting has trouble sometimes.
> >      Any ideas would be great.    Thanks,  Marcello
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 00:38:34 -0700
> > From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Message-ID: <006d01c55ea1$46e22ae0$6c00a8c0 at skyhighspeed.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> >
> >   When installing a 700R4 in my 1972 Nova, the crossmember had to be moved
> > back and the driveshaft shortened.  Everything else bolted right up-
> > shifter, oil cooler lines, speedometer cable, etc.  There was 1/2 inch
> > clearance between the trans and the tunnel.  But I kept blowing o-rings on
> > the servo cover on the right side of the transmission.  It would suddenly
> > start pouring oil profusely out of the servo.  The o-ring would be all
> > chewed up or almost missing.  After pulling the transmission twice, I
> > finally determined it would push against the tunnel and press in the servo
> > cover under hard cornering.  This would ruin the o-ring!  After this, the
> > Sledge-O-Matic and Jack-O-Matic were brought into play with great vigor
> and
> > little restraint on one particular spot on the trans tunnel. Now there is
> a
> > funny bulge you can feel through the carpet.  But no more servo cover
> o-ring
> > trouble!
> >   Whatever you do make sure no delicate parts of the transmission will hit
> > the body when the trans and motor mounts flex. I had 1/2 inch clearence
> but
> > that wasn't enough.  There's at least an inch now.  And even though the
> > o-ring is still intact, there's a mark in the undercoating where the servo
> > cover has lightly hit the body.
> >   Just my 2 cents worth!
> > David
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mike V" <diyefi at enzoco.com>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 6:16 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
> >
> >
> > > At 09:53 PM 5/18/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/transmount.jpg
> > > >
> > > >This is the stock '98 4L60E mount.  My tunnel doesn't have quite as
> much
> > > >room as the pickup did, I'd like to find a mount that's about an inch
> > > >shorter.  I thought a Camaro might have something shorter but it's
> > > >completely different, at least in '98.  Any suggestions for a different
> > > >year or model that might put the trans closer to the cross member?
> > >
> > > Have you already made full use of the trusty sledge-O-matic on the trans
> > > tunnel?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/airbox.jpg
> > > >
> > > >The stock air inlet has some kind of box attached, about 6"x6"x6", for
> > > >noise reduction?  Doesn't fit under the hood, so had to go.  Any clever
> > > >ideas for filling the hole where it connects?  A 2" PVC cap almost fits
> > > >but is just too small.
> > >
> > > I'm not getting the big picture on the airbox setup.
> > > If you can send me some more pics or diagrams, i might have
> > > some tubing parts I can send you.
> > > Most of my spares are 3 inch I think.
> > > MIke V
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
> >
> > End of Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
> > *************************************
> 
> 
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>
>
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Regards from


Mike Massen
Perth, Western Australia
VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
http://niche.iinet.net.au

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