[Diy_efi] Re: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 13
Pablo Lamsis
pablojr
Tue May 24 23:44:31 UTC 2005
Hello Mike,
Thanks for the message. The problem had been found. It's the Camshaft Angle
Sensor. It is giving zero volts when checked on the signal wires giving a
fault code of 11 and for the knock, I guess I have to figure that out once
the CAS is replaced. Thanks again and more power!
Juls
----- Original Message -----
From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 12:04 AM
Subject: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 13
> Send Diy_efi mailing list submissions to
> diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>
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> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
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>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. RE: Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> (Marcello A. Belloli)
> 2. RE: Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> (Gianmarco Rizzo (BE/EAS))
> 3. RE: Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> (Marcello A. Belloli)
> 4. Re: DTC 11 and 34 (Mike)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 04:00:48 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
> Injector?
> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> Message-ID:
> <47460.202.57.160.158.1116932448.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Steve,
> I follow exactly what you are saying. What I am figuring is that the
> valve will do the same thing every time, or close to it. So the
> inaccuracy should be a constant thing. What I want to look at are the
> differences, not so much the exact reading. So if I bump up the fuel
> table a notch, can I see the difference. I figure I should be able to
> cancel out the constant of error. And just look at the delta of
> injector time. I could easily be wrong. But I'm going to give it a
> try.
>
> Marcello
>
>
>
> > I've never characterized it's accuracy. In fact, I haven't really used
> > it other than testing it a few times to see if it worked. Too busy
> > doing things like replacing worn out steering boxes to have time for the
> > fun stuff.
> >
> > Anyway. Getting 2 significant digits from a pulse width meter would be
> > tough enough, 3 or 4 as you've indicated below is right out. The
> > injector probably spends half a millisecond somewhere between open and
> > closed every time it's fired and it's flow rate is undefined during this
> > period of time. With that kind of uncertainty in fueling getting a
> > bunch of decimal places on the pulse width measurement probably isn't
> > that useful.
> >
> > It should work fine on P/H circuits, as long as the voltage to the
> > injector doesn't go below the forward voltage drop of the diode, which
> > is probably something like 1.2 volts?
> >
> > Remember that your scanner is telling you what the computer wants the
> > injector to do, which isn't necessarily what the injector is doing, if
> > there's a defect somewhere in the circuit or one of the injectors.
> >
> > --steve
> >
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
> >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello A. Belloli
> >> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:56 PM
> >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
> >> Injector?
> >>
> >> Steve,
> >> With your setup how accurate can you get? All the
> >> scanners I've used
> >> in the past to look at cars gave readings in the x.xx ms range. At
> >> idle I've seen cars that started running rich, or lean based on the
> >> o2 reading and seen no change in injector pulse width on the scanner.
> >> I see the computers short term / long term trim values change, and
> >> yet the IPW reading never changed? I am guessing I need another
> >> order of accuracy like x.xxx ms to see these changes at idle. Do you
> >> think I could get that out of your circuit. And how does it handle a
> >> Peak Hold type injector? This is the most important piece of data
> >> I'm grabbing to try and do what I want to do in the end. I'm going
> >> to go grab the details to your project right now, and check it out.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Marcello
> >> >
> >> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
> >> >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello
> >> A. Belloli
> >> >> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 10:31 PM
> >> >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >> >> Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> >> >>
> >> >> Hello Everyone,
> >> >> I'm still working on a datalogger project. Been doing a
> >> >> lot of the
> >> >> software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
> >> >> vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project. I'm using a
> >> >> PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger. I've got just about
> >> >> everything working. The one place I'm having problem is the
> >> >> understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
> >> >> Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors,
> >> >> that will allow
> >> >> for an accurate account of timing? I've been looking at
> >> two type of
> >> >
> >> > For the pulse width meter I built (see the diy-efi.org
> >> projects page) I
> >> > used an opto-isolator to both insulate the measuring
> >> circuit from the
> >> > injector circuit, and make it able to hook up across the injector no
> >> > matter which side of the injector is driven, or what the voltage
> >> > waveform looks like. This particular opto-isolator has 2 diodes in
> >> > parallel, so the polarity of how it's connected doesn't
> >> matter -- if the
> >> > injector fires, then one of the diodes will light up and
> >> complete the
> >> > circuit.
> >> >
> >> >> injector firing. Low resistance injectors, which use a driver that
> >> >> duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep the current
> >> >> within limits. And Higher resistance ones where the
> >> resistance alone
> >> >> keeps the current down. Now how do you look at firing time of an
> >> >> injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
> >> >
> >> > I haven't see all driver circuits out there but I think most of them
> >> > don't duty cycle the injector, they just reduce the voltage
> >> applied to
> >> > the injector.
> >> >
> >> > --steve
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> > Diy_efi mailing list
> >> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >> >
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Diy_efi mailing list
> >> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >>
> >>
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 14:01:01 +0200
> From: "Gianmarco Rizzo \(BE/EAS\)" <gianmarco.rizzo at ericsson.com>
> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
> Injector?
> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> Message-ID:
> <D60C37C9EF5C39459E0F4EF508E560A26138DE at esealmw113.eemea.ericsson.se>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> some EFI's have a curve for correction of inj duration related to voltage.
my EFI adds 0.85 msec at 12V
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
> > [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
> > Behalf Of Marcello A. Belloli
> > Sent: Dienstag, 24. Mai 2005 13:01
> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
> > Injector?
> >
> >
> > Steve,
> > I follow exactly what you are saying. What I am figuring
> > is that the
> > valve will do the same thing every time, or close to it. So the
> > inaccuracy should be a constant thing. What I want to look at are the
> > differences, not so much the exact reading. So if I bump up the fuel
> > table a notch, can I see the difference. I figure I should be able to
> > cancel out the constant of error. And just look at the delta of
> > injector time. I could easily be wrong. But I'm going to give it a
> > try.
> >
> > Marcello
> >
> >
> >
> > > I've never characterized it's accuracy. In fact, I haven't
> > really used
> > > it other than testing it a few times to see if it worked. Too busy
> > > doing things like replacing worn out steering boxes to have
> > time for the
> > > fun stuff.
> > >
> > > Anyway. Getting 2 significant digits from a pulse width
> > meter would be
> > > tough enough, 3 or 4 as you've indicated below is right out. The
> > > injector probably spends half a millisecond somewhere
> > between open and
> > > closed every time it's fired and it's flow rate is
> > undefined during this
> > > period of time. With that kind of uncertainty in fueling getting a
> > > bunch of decimal places on the pulse width measurement
> > probably isn't
> > > that useful.
> > >
> > > It should work fine on P/H circuits, as long as the voltage to the
> > > injector doesn't go below the forward voltage drop of the
> > diode, which
> > > is probably something like 1.2 volts?
> > >
> > > Remember that your scanner is telling you what the computer
> > wants the
> > > injector to do, which isn't necessarily what the injector
> > is doing, if
> > > there's a defect somewhere in the circuit or one of the injectors.
> > >
> > > --steve
> > >
> > >
> > >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
> > >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello
> > A. Belloli
> > >> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:56 PM
> > >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
> > >> Injector?
> > >>
> > >> Steve,
> > >> With your setup how accurate can you get? All the
> > >> scanners I've used
> > >> in the past to look at cars gave readings in the x.xx ms range. At
> > >> idle I've seen cars that started running rich, or lean based on the
> > >> o2 reading and seen no change in injector pulse width on
> > the scanner.
> > >> I see the computers short term / long term trim values change, and
> > >> yet the IPW reading never changed? I am guessing I need another
> > >> order of accuracy like x.xxx ms to see these changes at
> > idle. Do you
> > >> think I could get that out of your circuit. And how does
> > it handle a
> > >> Peak Hold type injector? This is the most important piece of data
> > >> I'm grabbing to try and do what I want to do in the end. I'm going
> > >> to go grab the details to your project right now, and check it out.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks,
> > >>
> > >> Marcello
> > >> >
> > >> >> -----Original Message-----
> > >> >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
> > >> >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello
> > >> A. Belloli
> > >> >> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 10:31 PM
> > >> >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >> >> Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of
> > an Injector?
> > >> >>
> > >> >> Hello Everyone,
> > >> >> I'm still working on a datalogger project. Been doing a
> > >> >> lot of the
> > >> >> software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
> > >> >> vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project.
> > I'm using a
> > >> >> PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger. I've got
> > just about
> > >> >> everything working. The one place I'm having problem is the
> > >> >> understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
> > >> >> Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors,
> > >> >> that will allow
> > >> >> for an accurate account of timing? I've been looking at
> > >> two type of
> > >> >
> > >> > For the pulse width meter I built (see the diy-efi.org
> > >> projects page) I
> > >> > used an opto-isolator to both insulate the measuring
> > >> circuit from the
> > >> > injector circuit, and make it able to hook up across the
> > injector no
> > >> > matter which side of the injector is driven, or what the voltage
> > >> > waveform looks like. This particular opto-isolator has
> > 2 diodes in
> > >> > parallel, so the polarity of how it's connected doesn't
> > >> matter -- if the
> > >> > injector fires, then one of the diodes will light up and
> > >> complete the
> > >> > circuit.
> > >> >
> > >> >> injector firing. Low resistance injectors, which use a
> > driver that
> > >> >> duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep
> > the current
> > >> >> within limits. And Higher resistance ones where the
> > >> resistance alone
> > >> >> keeps the current down. Now how do you look at firing
> > time of an
> > >> >> injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
> > >> >
> > >> > I haven't see all driver circuits out there but I think
> > most of them
> > >> > don't duty cycle the injector, they just reduce the voltage
> > >> applied to
> > >> > the injector.
> > >> >
> > >> > --steve
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> > _______________________________________________
> > >> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > >> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> Diy_efi mailing list
> > >> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >>
> > >>
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 04:10:36 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
> Injector?
> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> Message-ID:
> <43518.202.57.160.158.1116933036.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>
> Honda Acura OBD 0 cars used a system of Peak and pulse width modulate. I
> am not sure if this was or is a bosch system. I didn't know I was going
> to have to deal with these until I was halfway done with everything else.
> All I know is it sucks. The later type used in OBD I cars just reduces
> the voltage. And doesn't make my head hurt.
>
> Marcello
>
>
>
> > --- Steve Ravet <Steve.Ravet at arm.com> wrote:
> >
> >> I haven't see all driver circuits out there but I
> >> think most of them don't duty cycle the injector,
> >> they just reduce the voltage applied to the
> > injector.
> >
> > The only designs I have seen that do this are Bosch
> > systems. The advantage is that the output transistor
> > is always driven at 100%, when driven (duty cycle is a
> > straight square wave), so heat is greatly reduced over
> > a regular P&H setup. The drawback is broadband EMF. :(
> >
> > | 82 Honda CX500 Turbo (Cassandra) 90 Kwak Zephyr 550 (Daphne) |
> > | "It was like an emergency ward after a great catastrophe; it |
> > | didn't matter what race or class the victims belonged to. |
> > | They were all given the same miracle drug, which was coffee. |
> > | The catastrophe in this case, of course, was that the sun |
> > | had come up again." -Kurt Vonnegut |
> > | M/C Fuel Inj. Hndbk. @ Amazon.com - http://tinyurl.com/6o3ze |
> >
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site
> > http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 21:01:13 +0800
> From: "Mike" <niche at iinet.net.au>
> Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DTC 11 and 34
> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.0.20050524205257.028ce1a0 at 203.0.178.192>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> At 07:39 PM 24/05/05, you wrote:
> >11- crank(cam) angle sensor
> >34- knock sensor
>
> Interesting, those are the same numbers as the VL Commodore
> with the Nissan RB30 engine...
>
> Mostly u can ignore 34 unless it comes up repeatedly. ie Its
> a limit warning for the ECU to retard not necessarily a sensor
> fault - but it might be ;)
>
> I mean, clear the fault report, go for drive and if 34 comes up
> each time then consider better (higher octane) fuel or look
> at mixture etc. I couldnt be bothered and removed the knock
> sensor and replaced the input with a circuit to simulate the
> impedance - so 34 never comes up for me and I just use
> PULP most of the time. Having the head off after 200,000K
> and I see no sign of knock, though I havent checked my
> big ends (yet) it does seem to run ok with same oil usage
> as it had when I bought it in 1989...
>
> 11 is a worry as it means ECU has found loss of sync or noise
> on crank angle signals. Highly recommend KEEP ignition leads
> well away from the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). Many of these
> failed in VL commodores - partly due to excessive heat on the turbo
> models (they ran sizzle hot) and mainly due to corona discharge
> or electric field effect from deteriorating ignition leads close to
> any low voltage CAS signal leads...
>
> However, do same thing with the fault report for 11, clear it and
> check again...
>
> Rgds
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
> >Citando Pablo Lamsis <pablojr at comfsm.fm>:
> >
> > Hello all,
> > Got a Nissan Vanette with engine SR20 model 1998. I've got DTC 11 and 34
> > coming up and the engine just die. Ever encountered this problem? Pls
help.
> > Juls
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 4:51 PM
> > Subject: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
> >
> >
> > > Send Diy_efi mailing list submissions to
> > > diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> > > diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > You can reach the person managing the list at
> > > diy_efi-owner at diy-efi.org
> > >
> > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> > > than "Re: Contents of Diy_efi digest..."
> > >
> > >
> > > Today's Topics:
> > >
> > > 1. Re: swap part questions (Mike V)
> > > 2. Introduction (John Christensen)
> > > 3. Re: injector sizes 1998 vortec 454 (Jim Butterfield)
> > > 4. Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> > > (Marcello A. Belloli)
> > > 5. Re: swap part questions (David Allen)
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 09:16:42 -0400
> > > From: Mike V <diyefi at enzoco.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20050521091107.00c30af0 at enzoco.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> > >
> > > At 09:53 PM 5/18/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> > >
> > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/transmount.jpg
> > > >
> > > >This is the stock '98 4L60E mount. My tunnel doesn't have quite as
much
> > > >room as the pickup did, I'd like to find a mount that's about an inch
> > > >shorter. I thought a Camaro might have something shorter but it's
> > > >completely different, at least in '98. Any suggestions for a
different
> > > >year or model that might put the trans closer to the cross member?
> > >
> > > Have you already made full use of the trusty sledge-O-matic on the
trans
> > > tunnel?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/airbox.jpg
> > > >
> > > >The stock air inlet has some kind of box attached, about 6"x6"x6",
for
> > > >noise reduction? Doesn't fit under the hood, so had to go. Any
clever
> > > >ideas for filling the hole where it connects? A 2" PVC cap almost
fits
> > > >but is just too small.
> > >
> > > I'm not getting the big picture on the airbox setup.
> > > If you can send me some more pics or diagrams, i might have
> > > some tubing parts I can send you.
> > > Most of my spares are 3 inch I think.
> > > MIke V
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 2
> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 09:36:38 -0500
> > > From: "John Christensen" <johncgg at comcast.net>
> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] Introduction
> > > To: "EFI-DIY List" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Message-ID: <001901c55e12$81a629e0$660fa8c0 at hpmedia>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> > >
> > > Hello everyone!
> > > I have been lurking on the list a while. It's obvious that I am a real
> > > newbie on the Fuel Injection front.
> > >
> > > I have had my 1984 El Camino for about 12 years. It became a project
about
> > 6
> > > years ago. It's also a daily driver (for lack of funds). The project
is
> > > documented in the signature file.
> > >
> > > I recently had to convert from a Carter AFB carb setup, to TBI, in
order
> > to
> > > pass emissions testing in the Chicago area. I had passed the last 2
rounds
> > > with fine tuning (barely), but the standards are stricter now. The
> > emissions
> > > controls have been modified or excluded for the most part, by the
previous
> > > owner, when it was in Iowa, and there was no testing.
> > >
> > > After the conversion, I passed with Flying colors, and should not have
to
> > > worry about this in the years to come.
> > >
> > > There was a recent thread on the air intake, and I wanted to show what
we
> > > did on my son's 1996 Bonneville for cold air. I used the Electrical
> > conduit,
> > > and I want to say it was 3", but it fit perfectly in the rubber flex,
that
> > > houses the sensor for the system. (Intake Air Temp?). See:
> > > http://home.comcast.net/~sk8nate/intake.htm
> > > Time to clean that filter.... maybe this afternoon.
> > >
> > > Now for the series of newbie questions.....
> > > This is the conversion: http://www.myelcamino.net/tbi1.htm (4 pages)
The
> > > part numbers are on a chart pictured on the first page (click for a
larger
> > > view). They are basically the numbers suggested by the Painless
> > Performance
> > > kit for wiring this conversion.
> > >
> > > I need to make sure I have a complete set of new plugs, cap and rotor
to
> > > have a base line. But as I said $$ does not come easy at the moment.
Once
> > I
> > > have this done, I want to have a systematic approach to making it run
> > > better, and I think this list can help.
> > >
> > > I have some hesitation, and some trouble holding a consistent speed.
Of
> > > great annoyance, is the fact that the TCC engages about 30 mph when
trying
> > > to drive a steady 30 or 35 mpg, it kicks in & out a lot. I have a
switch,
> > to
> > > turn this off, on the dash. I would like it to kick in more at 40 to
45.
> > > Also, when the TCC is engaged, and I try to accelerate abruptly, there
is
> > a
> > > real nasty time lag before it disengages, or kicks down. It is much
better
> > > with the switch off, but I wondered if there is anything that can be
done
> > > about the responsiveness of this feature. I assume it is the MAP
sensor
> > > input that controls it. Would a different sensor help?
> > >
> > > I have a 1 wire O2 sensor, and I really want to put in a 3 or 4 wire
> > sensor.
> > > I have some recommendations for that one. The sensor is welded in just
> > past
> > > the shorty header collector, and may not be getting enough heat to
work
> > > right (is my theory, but help me here ;) Do you think this is where I
> > should
> > > start?
> > >
> > > Could the Throttle position sensor have an effect on these functions?
I
> > have
> > > tossed around replacing both that, and the IAC, because it is a little
> > > unsteady at idle, even after resetting the IAC.
> > >
> > > Could different injectors help overall performance? Or would it be a
waste
> > > of time on such a low pressure system?
> > >
> > > Is there anyone on the list that burns chips for the ECM, that could
> > tailor
> > > it for a 350, .030 over, TH350C Transmission with a slightly modified
> > > throttle valve spring (it responds a little quicker, but does not
shift
> > > hard). I have a stock cam, shorty headers, dual exhaust (2.25"?), dual
> > plane
> > > intake, cold air through the cowl. The thermostat is a 195 now, but
the
> > > engine really liked the 180 that I had before the emissions fiasco.
What
> > > would a set of custom chips cost?
> > >
> > > I know this is wide open, and there are a lot of questions. Please let
me
> > > know if I am in the right place at all. I don't want to be intruding
on
> > your
> > > list, by being off topic.
> > > Thank you in advance for your input.
> > >
> > > JC
> > >
> > > ---
> > > John Christensen St. Charles, IL
> > > 1984 El Camino, 355 TBI
> > > National El Camino Owners Association #042
> > > http://www.myelcamino.net
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> >
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> > achment-0001.htm
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 3
> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 08:14:16 -0700 (PDT)
> > > From: Jim Butterfield <jimbutterfield at yahoo.com>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] injector sizes 1998 vortec 454
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Message-ID: <20050521151416.91193.qmail at web52707.mail.yahoo.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> > >
> > > Grand prixs use 36# units... if you want to upgrade, and run about the
> > same fuel pres... 55-58lbs.... you chould check to see injector PW and
if
> > that number is up in the low 20-22IPW then they are maxed out....
> > >
> > > jim
> > >
> > > Scott Peitzsch <jlg-sep at comcast.net> wrote:
> > >
> > > @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
> > mso-header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; mso-paper-source:
> > 0; }P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY:
"Times
> > New Roman"; mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;
> > mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:
12pt;
> > MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-style-parent:
"";
> > mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New
> > Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt;
FONT-FAMILY:
> > "Times New Roman"; mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;
> > mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}A:link { COLOR: blue;
> > TEXT-DECORATION: underline; text-underline: single}SPAN.MsoHyperlink {
> > COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; text-underline:
single}A:visited
> > { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; text-underline:
> > single}SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION:
> > underline;
> > > text-underline: single}SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext;
> > FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-compose; mso-style-noshow:
yes;
> > mso-ansi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;
> > mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial;
> > mso-bidi-font-family: Arial}SPAN.SpellE { mso-style-name: ""; mso-spl-e:
> > yes}SPAN.GramE { mso-style-name: ""; mso-gram-e: yes}DIV.Section1 {
page:
> > Section1}I had a set of these a while back and after a great deal of
> > digging, found multiple
> > > sources that indicated they flow 22#/hr @ 58PSI. Unfortunately, that
> > doesn't
> > > make them particularly useful for even a mild engine buildup.
> > >
> > > -Scott
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Brendan Patten
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:32 PM
> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] injector sizes 1998 vortec 454
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > I've got a set of injectors from a 1998 Vortec 454 Chevrolet engine,
does
> > anyone have any idea what the flow rate @ psi is?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> > >
> > > ---------------------------------
> > > Do you Yahoo!?
> > > Make Yahoo! your home page
> > > -------------- next part --------------
> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> > > URL:
> >
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> > achment-0001.htm
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 4
> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 20:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
> > > From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > Message-ID:
> > > <11600.202.57.160.158.1116732631.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
> > >
> > > Hello Everyone,
> > > I'm still working on a datalogger project. Been doing a lot of
the
> > > software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
> > > vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project. I'm using a
> > > PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger. I've got just about
> > > everything working. The one place I'm having problem is the
> > > understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
> > > Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors, that will
allow
> > > for an accurate account of timing? I've been looking at two type of
> > > injector firing. Low resistance injectors, which use a driver that
> > > duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep the current
> > > within limits. And Higher resistance ones where the resistance alone
> > > keeps the current down. Now how do you look at firing time of an
> > > injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
> > > I guess I have one more question too - What is the best way to
> > > connect to a circuit like an injector driver output? I figure I only
> > > really need timing information. I want to keep the voltage between
> > > 0-5 volts and apply as little load to the circuit as possible.
> > > After looking at this I can understand why my multimeter that has
a
> > > PulseWidth setting has trouble sometimes.
> > > Any ideas would be great. Thanks, Marcello
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > Message: 5
> > > Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 00:38:34 -0700
> > > From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Message-ID: <006d01c55ea1$46e22ae0$6c00a8c0 at skyhighspeed.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> > >
> > > When installing a 700R4 in my 1972 Nova, the crossmember had to be
moved
> > > back and the driveshaft shortened. Everything else bolted right up-
> > > shifter, oil cooler lines, speedometer cable, etc. There was 1/2 inch
> > > clearance between the trans and the tunnel. But I kept blowing
o-rings on
> > > the servo cover on the right side of the transmission. It would
suddenly
> > > start pouring oil profusely out of the servo. The o-ring would be all
> > > chewed up or almost missing. After pulling the transmission twice, I
> > > finally determined it would push against the tunnel and press in the
servo
> > > cover under hard cornering. This would ruin the o-ring! After this,
the
> > > Sledge-O-Matic and Jack-O-Matic were brought into play with great
vigor
> > and
> > > little restraint on one particular spot on the trans tunnel. Now there
is
> > a
> > > funny bulge you can feel through the carpet. But no more servo cover
> > o-ring
> > > trouble!
> > > Whatever you do make sure no delicate parts of the transmission will
hit
> > > the body when the trans and motor mounts flex. I had 1/2 inch
clearence
> > but
> > > that wasn't enough. There's at least an inch now. And even though
the
> > > o-ring is still intact, there's a mark in the undercoating where the
servo
> > > cover has lightly hit the body.
> > > Just my 2 cents worth!
> > > David
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Mike V" <diyefi at enzoco.com>
> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
> > > Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 6:16 AM
> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
> > >
> > >
> > > > At 09:53 PM 5/18/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/transmount.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > >This is the stock '98 4L60E mount. My tunnel doesn't have quite as
> > much
> > > > >room as the pickup did, I'd like to find a mount that's about an
inch
> > > > >shorter. I thought a Camaro might have something shorter but it's
> > > > >completely different, at least in '98. Any suggestions for a
different
> > > > >year or model that might put the trans closer to the cross member?
> > > >
> > > > Have you already made full use of the trusty sledge-O-matic on the
trans
> > > > tunnel?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/airbox.jpg
> > > > >
> > > > >The stock air inlet has some kind of box attached, about 6"x6"x6",
for
> > > > >noise reduction? Doesn't fit under the hood, so had to go. Any
clever
> > > > >ideas for filling the hole where it connects? A 2" PVC cap almost
fits
> > > > >but is just too small.
> > > >
> > > > I'm not getting the big picture on the airbox setup.
> > > > If you can send me some more pics or diagrams, i might have
> > > > some tubing parts I can send you.
> > > > Most of my spares are 3 inch I think.
> > > > MIke V
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Diy_efi mailing list
> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> > >
> > >
> > > End of Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
> > > *************************************
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Diy_efi mailing list
> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >__________________________________________________________
> >Pare de esbanjar dinheiro!
> >Compare o pre?o da sua liga??o ? Internet
> >http://acesso.portugalmail.pt/maisbarato
> >_______________________________________________
> >Diy_efi mailing list
> >Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> >http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>
> Regards from
>
>
> Mike Massen
> Perth, Western Australia
> VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
> http://niche.iinet.net.au
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Diy_efi mailing list
> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>
>
> End of Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 13
> **************************************
>
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