[Diy_efi] DTC 11 and 34
Mike
niche
Wed May 25 04:42:00 UTC 2005
At 07:44 AM 25/05/05, you wrote:
>Hello Mike,
>Thanks for the message. The problem had been found. It's the Camshaft Angle
>Sensor. It is giving zero volts when checked on the signal wires giving a
>fault code of 11 and for the knock, I guess I have to figure that out once
>the CAS is replaced. Thanks again and more power!
Yeah mine failed in very hot weather (38deg C) then would be alright
when it cooled down. Ended up putting in one from a skyline, which is
slightly different and it has a rotor from a mitsubishi which I didnt know
until I needed a spare - much harder to find that part. Not compatible with
the GMH/Nissan one as the bore dia is 0.5mm smaller...and no lathe
to hand at the time :(
If your car was intended for ULP and the detonation sensor was tripping
often then a change to PULP is very likely to give a little more power,
I also notice that PULP in Perth, Western Australia seems to have a little
more energy as well, so I use it on long country trips and get an
extra 50 to 80Kms from a tank full - along with the extra 100Kms I get
on a smooth 90 to 100Km/hr highway type cycle... ie Did a test on a 900Km
trip last year and PULP gave me more mileage, all else being (mostly)
equal...
Rgds
Mike
>Juls
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
>To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 25, 2005 12:04 AM
>Subject: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 13
>
>
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>>
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>> 1. RE: Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
>> (Marcello A. Belloli)
>> 2. RE: Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
>> (Gianmarco Rizzo (BE/EAS))
>> 3. RE: Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
>> (Marcello A. Belloli)
>> 4. Re: DTC 11 and 34 (Mike)
>>
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 04:00:48 -0700 (PDT)
>> From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
>> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
>> Injector?
>> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> Message-ID:
>> <47460.202.57.160.158.1116932448.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>>
>> Steve,
>> I follow exactly what you are saying. What I am figuring is that the
>> valve will do the same thing every time, or close to it. So the
>> inaccuracy should be a constant thing. What I want to look at are the
>> differences, not so much the exact reading. So if I bump up the fuel
>> table a notch, can I see the difference. I figure I should be able to
>> cancel out the constant of error. And just look at the delta of
>> injector time. I could easily be wrong. But I'm going to give it a
>> try.
>>
>> Marcello
>>
>>
>>
>> > I've never characterized it's accuracy. In fact, I haven't really used
>> > it other than testing it a few times to see if it worked. Too busy
>> > doing things like replacing worn out steering boxes to have time for the
>> > fun stuff.
>> >
>> > Anyway. Getting 2 significant digits from a pulse width meter would be
>> > tough enough, 3 or 4 as you've indicated below is right out. The
>> > injector probably spends half a millisecond somewhere between open and
>> > closed every time it's fired and it's flow rate is undefined during this
>> > period of time. With that kind of uncertainty in fueling getting a
>> > bunch of decimal places on the pulse width measurement probably isn't
>> > that useful.
>> >
>> > It should work fine on P/H circuits, as long as the voltage to the
>> > injector doesn't go below the forward voltage drop of the diode, which
>> > is probably something like 1.2 volts?
>> >
>> > Remember that your scanner is telling you what the computer wants the
>> > injector to do, which isn't necessarily what the injector is doing, if
>> > there's a defect somewhere in the circuit or one of the injectors.
>> >
>> > --steve
>> >
>> >
>> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
>> >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello A. Belloli
>> >> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:56 PM
>> >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
>> >> Injector?
>> >>
>> >> Steve,
>> >> With your setup how accurate can you get? All the
>> >> scanners I've used
>> >> in the past to look at cars gave readings in the x.xx ms range. At
>> >> idle I've seen cars that started running rich, or lean based on the
>> >> o2 reading and seen no change in injector pulse width on the scanner.
>> >> I see the computers short term / long term trim values change, and
>> >> yet the IPW reading never changed? I am guessing I need another
>> >> order of accuracy like x.xxx ms to see these changes at idle. Do you
>> >> think I could get that out of your circuit. And how does it handle a
>> >> Peak Hold type injector? This is the most important piece of data
>> >> I'm grabbing to try and do what I want to do in the end. I'm going
>> >> to go grab the details to your project right now, and check it out.
>> >>
>> >> Thanks,
>> >>
>> >> Marcello
>> >> >
>> >> >> -----Original Message-----
>> >> >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
>> >> >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello
>> >> A. Belloli
>> >> >> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 10:31 PM
>> >> >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >> >> Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
>> >> >>
>> >> >> Hello Everyone,
>> >> >> I'm still working on a datalogger project. Been doing a
>> >> >> lot of the
>> >> >> software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
>> >> >> vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project. I'm using a
>> >> >> PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger. I've got just about
>> >> >> everything working. The one place I'm having problem is the
>> >> >> understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
>> >> >> Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors,
>> >> >> that will allow
>> >> >> for an accurate account of timing? I've been looking at
>> >> two type of
>> >> >
>> >> > For the pulse width meter I built (see the diy-efi.org
>> >> projects page) I
>> >> > used an opto-isolator to both insulate the measuring
>> >> circuit from the
>> >> > injector circuit, and make it able to hook up across the injector no
>> >> > matter which side of the injector is driven, or what the voltage
>> >> > waveform looks like. This particular opto-isolator has 2 diodes in
>> >> > parallel, so the polarity of how it's connected doesn't
>> >> matter -- if the
>> >> > injector fires, then one of the diodes will light up and
>> >> complete the
>> >> > circuit.
>> >> >
>> >> >> injector firing. Low resistance injectors, which use a driver that
>> >> >> duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep the current
>> >> >> within limits. And Higher resistance ones where the
>> >> resistance alone
>> >> >> keeps the current down. Now how do you look at firing time of an
>> >> >> injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
>> >> >
>> >> > I haven't see all driver circuits out there but I think most of them
>> >> > don't duty cycle the injector, they just reduce the voltage
>> >> applied to
>> >> > the injector.
>> >> >
>> >> > --steve
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > _______________________________________________
>> >> > Diy_efi mailing list
>> >> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >> _______________________________________________
>> >> Diy_efi mailing list
>> >> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> >>
>> >>
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 14:01:01 +0200
>> From: "Gianmarco Rizzo \(BE/EAS\)" <gianmarco.rizzo at ericsson.com>
>> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
>> Injector?
>> To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>> Message-ID:
>> <D60C37C9EF5C39459E0F4EF508E560A26138DE at esealmw113.eemea.ericsson.se>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> some EFI's have a curve for correction of inj duration related to voltage.
>my EFI adds 0.85 msec at 12V
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
>> > [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
>> > Behalf Of Marcello A. Belloli
>> > Sent: Dienstag, 24. Mai 2005 13:01
>> > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
>> > Injector?
>> >
>> >
>> > Steve,
>> > I follow exactly what you are saying. What I am figuring
>> > is that the
>> > valve will do the same thing every time, or close to it. So the
>> > inaccuracy should be a constant thing. What I want to look at are the
>> > differences, not so much the exact reading. So if I bump up the fuel
>> > table a notch, can I see the difference. I figure I should be able to
>> > cancel out the constant of error. And just look at the delta of
>> > injector time. I could easily be wrong. But I'm going to give it a
>> > try.
>> >
>> > Marcello
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > > I've never characterized it's accuracy. In fact, I haven't
>> > really used
>> > > it other than testing it a few times to see if it worked. Too busy
>> > > doing things like replacing worn out steering boxes to have
>> > time for the
>> > > fun stuff.
>> > >
>> > > Anyway. Getting 2 significant digits from a pulse width
>> > meter would be
>> > > tough enough, 3 or 4 as you've indicated below is right out. The
>> > > injector probably spends half a millisecond somewhere
>> > between open and
>> > > closed every time it's fired and it's flow rate is
>> > undefined during this
>> > > period of time. With that kind of uncertainty in fueling getting a
>> > > bunch of decimal places on the pulse width measurement
>> > probably isn't
>> > > that useful.
>> > >
>> > > It should work fine on P/H circuits, as long as the voltage to the
>> > > injector doesn't go below the forward voltage drop of the
>> > diode, which
>> > > is probably something like 1.2 volts?
>> > >
>> > > Remember that your scanner is telling you what the computer
>> > wants the
>> > > injector to do, which isn't necessarily what the injector
>> > is doing, if
>> > > there's a defect somewhere in the circuit or one of the injectors.
>> > >
>> > > --steve
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >> -----Original Message-----
>> > >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
>> > >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello
>> > A. Belloli
>> > >> Sent: Monday, May 23, 2005 10:56 PM
>> > >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
>> > >> Injector?
>> > >>
>> > >> Steve,
>> > >> With your setup how accurate can you get? All the
>> > >> scanners I've used
>> > >> in the past to look at cars gave readings in the x.xx ms range. At
>> > >> idle I've seen cars that started running rich, or lean based on the
>> > >> o2 reading and seen no change in injector pulse width on
>> > the scanner.
>> > >> I see the computers short term / long term trim values change, and
>> > >> yet the IPW reading never changed? I am guessing I need another
>> > >> order of accuracy like x.xxx ms to see these changes at
>> > idle. Do you
>> > >> think I could get that out of your circuit. And how does
>> > it handle a
>> > >> Peak Hold type injector? This is the most important piece of data
>> > >> I'm grabbing to try and do what I want to do in the end. I'm going
>> > >> to go grab the details to your project right now, and check it out.
>> > >>
>> > >> Thanks,
>> > >>
>> > >> Marcello
>> > >> >
>> > >> >> -----Original Message-----
>> > >> >> From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org
>> > >> >> [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org] On Behalf Of Marcello
>> > >> A. Belloli
>> > >> >> Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 10:31 PM
>> > >> >> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >> >> Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of
>> > an Injector?
>> > >> >>
>> > >> >> Hello Everyone,
>> > >> >> I'm still working on a datalogger project. Been doing a
>> > >> >> lot of the
>> > >> >> software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
>> > >> >> vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project.
>> > I'm using a
>> > >> >> PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger. I've got
>> > just about
>> > >> >> everything working. The one place I'm having problem is the
>> > >> >> understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
>> > >> >> Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors,
>> > >> >> that will allow
>> > >> >> for an accurate account of timing? I've been looking at
>> > >> two type of
>> > >> >
>> > >> > For the pulse width meter I built (see the diy-efi.org
>> > >> projects page) I
>> > >> > used an opto-isolator to both insulate the measuring
>> > >> circuit from the
>> > >> > injector circuit, and make it able to hook up across the
>> > injector no
>> > >> > matter which side of the injector is driven, or what the voltage
>> > >> > waveform looks like. This particular opto-isolator has
>> > 2 diodes in
>> > >> > parallel, so the polarity of how it's connected doesn't
>> > >> matter -- if the
>> > >> > injector fires, then one of the diodes will light up and
>> > >> complete the
>> > >> > circuit.
>> > >> >
>> > >> >> injector firing. Low resistance injectors, which use a
>> > driver that
>> > >> >> duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep
>> > the current
>> > >> >> within limits. And Higher resistance ones where the
>> > >> resistance alone
>> > >> >> keeps the current down. Now how do you look at firing
>> > time of an
>> > >> >> injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
>> > >> >
>> > >> > I haven't see all driver circuits out there but I think
>> > most of them
>> > >> > don't duty cycle the injector, they just reduce the voltage
>> > >> applied to
>> > >> > the injector.
>> > >> >
>> > >> > --steve
>> > >> >
>> > >> >
>> > >> > _______________________________________________
>> > >> > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > >> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > >> >
>> > >>
>> > >> _______________________________________________
>> > >> Diy_efi mailing list
>> > >> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > >>
>> > >>
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> >
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 3
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 04:10:36 -0700 (PDT)
>> From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
>> Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an
>> Injector?
>> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> Message-ID:
>> <43518.202.57.160.158.1116933036.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
>> Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>>
>> Honda Acura OBD 0 cars used a system of Peak and pulse width modulate. I
>> am not sure if this was or is a bosch system. I didn't know I was going
>> to have to deal with these until I was halfway done with everything else.
>> All I know is it sucks. The later type used in OBD I cars just reduces
>> the voltage. And doesn't make my head hurt.
>>
>> Marcello
>>
>>
>>
>> > --- Steve Ravet <Steve.Ravet at arm.com> wrote:
>> >
>> >> I haven't see all driver circuits out there but I
>> >> think most of them don't duty cycle the injector,
>> >> they just reduce the voltage applied to the
>> > injector.
>> >
>> > The only designs I have seen that do this are Bosch
>> > systems. The advantage is that the output transistor
>> > is always driven at 100%, when driven (duty cycle is a
>> > straight square wave), so heat is greatly reduced over
>> > a regular P&H setup. The drawback is broadband EMF. :(
>> >
>> > | 82 Honda CX500 Turbo (Cassandra) 90 Kwak Zephyr 550 (Daphne) |
>> > | "It was like an emergency ward after a great catastrophe; it |
>> > | didn't matter what race or class the victims belonged to. |
>> > | They were all given the same miracle drug, which was coffee. |
>> > | The catastrophe in this case, of course, was that the sun |
>> > | had come up again." -Kurt Vonnegut |
>> > | M/C Fuel Inj. Hndbk. @ Amazon.com - http://tinyurl.com/6o3ze |
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > __________________________________
>> > Do you Yahoo!?
>> > Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new Resources site
>> > http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 4
>> Date: Tue, 24 May 2005 21:01:13 +0800
>> From: "Mike" <niche at iinet.net.au>
>> Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] DTC 11 and 34
>> To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> Message-ID: <6.1.2.0.0.20050524205257.028ce1a0 at 203.0.178.192>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>>
>> At 07:39 PM 24/05/05, you wrote:
>> >11- crank(cam) angle sensor
>> >34- knock sensor
>>
>> Interesting, those are the same numbers as the VL Commodore
>> with the Nissan RB30 engine...
>>
>> Mostly u can ignore 34 unless it comes up repeatedly. ie Its
>> a limit warning for the ECU to retard not necessarily a sensor
>> fault - but it might be ;)
>>
>> I mean, clear the fault report, go for drive and if 34 comes up
>> each time then consider better (higher octane) fuel or look
>> at mixture etc. I couldnt be bothered and removed the knock
>> sensor and replaced the input with a circuit to simulate the
>> impedance - so 34 never comes up for me and I just use
>> PULP most of the time. Having the head off after 200,000K
>> and I see no sign of knock, though I havent checked my
>> big ends (yet) it does seem to run ok with same oil usage
>> as it had when I bought it in 1989...
>>
>> 11 is a worry as it means ECU has found loss of sync or noise
>> on crank angle signals. Highly recommend KEEP ignition leads
>> well away from the CAS (Crank Angle Sensor). Many of these
>> failed in VL commodores - partly due to excessive heat on the turbo
>> models (they ran sizzle hot) and mainly due to corona discharge
>> or electric field effect from deteriorating ignition leads close to
>> any low voltage CAS signal leads...
>>
>> However, do same thing with the fault report for 11, clear it and
>> check again...
>>
>> Rgds
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >Citando Pablo Lamsis <pablojr at comfsm.fm>:
>> >
>> > Hello all,
>> > Got a Nissan Vanette with engine SR20 model 1998. I've got DTC 11 and 34
>> > coming up and the engine just die. Ever encountered this problem? Pls
>help.
>> > Juls
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: <diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org>
>> > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>> > Sent: Sunday, May 22, 2005 4:51 PM
>> > Subject: Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
>> >
>> >
>> > > Send Diy_efi mailing list submissions to
>> > > diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >
>> > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> > > diy_efi-request at diy-efi.org
>> > >
>> > > You can reach the person managing the list at
>> > > diy_efi-owner at diy-efi.org
>> > >
>> > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> > > than "Re: Contents of Diy_efi digest..."
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Today's Topics:
>> > >
>> > > 1. Re: swap part questions (Mike V)
>> > > 2. Introduction (John Christensen)
>> > > 3. Re: injector sizes 1998 vortec 454 (Jim Butterfield)
>> > > 4. Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
>> > > (Marcello A. Belloli)
>> > > 5. Re: swap part questions (David Allen)
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 1
>> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 09:16:42 -0400
>> > > From: Mike V <diyefi at enzoco.com>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
>> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > Message-ID: <5.1.0.14.0.20050521091107.00c30af0 at enzoco.com>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>> > >
>> > > At 09:53 PM 5/18/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>> > >
>> > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/transmount.jpg
>> > > >
>> > > >This is the stock '98 4L60E mount. My tunnel doesn't have quite as
>much
>> > > >room as the pickup did, I'd like to find a mount that's about an inch
>> > > >shorter. I thought a Camaro might have something shorter but it's
>> > > >completely different, at least in '98. Any suggestions for a
>different
>> > > >year or model that might put the trans closer to the cross member?
>> > >
>> > > Have you already made full use of the trusty sledge-O-matic on the
>trans
>> > > tunnel?
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/airbox.jpg
>> > > >
>> > > >The stock air inlet has some kind of box attached, about 6"x6"x6",
>for
>> > > >noise reduction? Doesn't fit under the hood, so had to go. Any
>clever
>> > > >ideas for filling the hole where it connects? A 2" PVC cap almost
>fits
>> > > >but is just too small.
>> > >
>> > > I'm not getting the big picture on the airbox setup.
>> > > If you can send me some more pics or diagrams, i might have
>> > > some tubing parts I can send you.
>> > > Most of my spares are 3 inch I think.
>> > > MIke V
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 2
>> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 09:36:38 -0500
>> > > From: "John Christensen" <johncgg at comcast.net>
>> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] Introduction
>> > > To: "EFI-DIY List" <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>> > > Message-ID: <001901c55e12$81a629e0$660fa8c0 at hpmedia>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> > >
>> > > Hello everyone!
>> > > I have been lurking on the list a while. It's obvious that I am a real
>> > > newbie on the Fuel Injection front.
>> > >
>> > > I have had my 1984 El Camino for about 12 years. It became a project
>about
>> > 6
>> > > years ago. It's also a daily driver (for lack of funds). The project
>is
>> > > documented in the signature file.
>> > >
>> > > I recently had to convert from a Carter AFB carb setup, to TBI, in
>order
>> > to
>> > > pass emissions testing in the Chicago area. I had passed the last 2
>rounds
>> > > with fine tuning (barely), but the standards are stricter now. The
>> > emissions
>> > > controls have been modified or excluded for the most part, by the
>previous
>> > > owner, when it was in Iowa, and there was no testing.
>> > >
>> > > After the conversion, I passed with Flying colors, and should not have
>to
>> > > worry about this in the years to come.
>> > >
>> > > There was a recent thread on the air intake, and I wanted to show what
>we
>> > > did on my son's 1996 Bonneville for cold air. I used the Electrical
>> > conduit,
>> > > and I want to say it was 3", but it fit perfectly in the rubber flex,
>that
>> > > houses the sensor for the system. (Intake Air Temp?). See:
>> > > http://home.comcast.net/~sk8nate/intake.htm
>> > > Time to clean that filter.... maybe this afternoon.
>> > >
>> > > Now for the series of newbie questions.....
>> > > This is the conversion: http://www.myelcamino.net/tbi1.htm (4 pages)
>The
>> > > part numbers are on a chart pictured on the first page (click for a
>larger
>> > > view). They are basically the numbers suggested by the Painless
>> > Performance
>> > > kit for wiring this conversion.
>> > >
>> > > I need to make sure I have a complete set of new plugs, cap and rotor
>to
>> > > have a base line. But as I said $$ does not come easy at the moment.
>Once
>> > I
>> > > have this done, I want to have a systematic approach to making it run
>> > > better, and I think this list can help.
>> > >
>> > > I have some hesitation, and some trouble holding a consistent speed.
>Of
>> > > great annoyance, is the fact that the TCC engages about 30 mph when
>trying
>> > > to drive a steady 30 or 35 mpg, it kicks in & out a lot. I have a
>switch,
>> > to
>> > > turn this off, on the dash. I would like it to kick in more at 40 to
>45.
>> > > Also, when the TCC is engaged, and I try to accelerate abruptly, there
>is
>> > a
>> > > real nasty time lag before it disengages, or kicks down. It is much
>better
>> > > with the switch off, but I wondered if there is anything that can be
>done
>> > > about the responsiveness of this feature. I assume it is the MAP
>sensor
>> > > input that controls it. Would a different sensor help?
>> > >
>> > > I have a 1 wire O2 sensor, and I really want to put in a 3 or 4 wire
>> > sensor.
>> > > I have some recommendations for that one. The sensor is welded in just
>> > past
>> > > the shorty header collector, and may not be getting enough heat to
>work
>> > > right (is my theory, but help me here ;) Do you think this is where I
>> > should
>> > > start?
>> > >
>> > > Could the Throttle position sensor have an effect on these functions?
>I
>> > have
>> > > tossed around replacing both that, and the IAC, because it is a little
>> > > unsteady at idle, even after resetting the IAC.
>> > >
>> > > Could different injectors help overall performance? Or would it be a
>waste
>> > > of time on such a low pressure system?
>> > >
>> > > Is there anyone on the list that burns chips for the ECM, that could
>> > tailor
>> > > it for a 350, .030 over, TH350C Transmission with a slightly modified
>> > > throttle valve spring (it responds a little quicker, but does not
>shift
>> > > hard). I have a stock cam, shorty headers, dual exhaust (2.25"?), dual
>> > plane
>> > > intake, cold air through the cowl. The thermostat is a 195 now, but
>the
>> > > engine really liked the 180 that I had before the emissions fiasco.
>What
>> > > would a set of custom chips cost?
>> > >
>> > > I know this is wide open, and there are a lot of questions. Please let
>me
>> > > know if I am in the right place at all. I don't want to be intruding
>on
>> > your
>> > > list, by being off topic.
>> > > Thank you in advance for your input.
>> > >
>> > > JC
>> > >
>> > > ---
>> > > John Christensen St. Charles, IL
>> > > 1984 El Camino, 355 TBI
>> > > National El Camino Owners Association #042
>> > > http://www.myelcamino.net
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > -------------- next part --------------
>> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > > URL:
>> >
>http://lists.diy-efi.org/pipermail/diy_efi/attachments/20050521/41bfc3fd/att
>> > achment-0001.htm
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 3
>> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 08:14:16 -0700 (PDT)
>> > > From: Jim Butterfield <jimbutterfield at yahoo.com>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] injector sizes 1998 vortec 454
>> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > Message-ID: <20050521151416.91193.qmail at web52707.mail.yahoo.com>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> > >
>> > > Grand prixs use 36# units... if you want to upgrade, and run about the
>> > same fuel pres... 55-58lbs.... you chould check to see injector PW and
>if
>> > that number is up in the low 20-22IPW then they are maxed out....
>> > >
>> > > jim
>> > >
>> > > Scott Peitzsch <jlg-sep at comcast.net> wrote:
>> > >
>> > > @page Section1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;
>> > mso-header-margin: .5in; mso-footer-margin: .5in; mso-paper-source:
>> > 0; }P.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY:
>"Times
>> > New Roman"; mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;
>> > mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}LI.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE:
>12pt;
>> > MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Times New Roman"; mso-style-parent:
>"";
>> > mso-pagination: widow-orphan; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New
>> > Roman"}DIV.MsoNormal { FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt;
>FONT-FAMILY:
>> > "Times New Roman"; mso-style-parent: ""; mso-pagination: widow-orphan;
>> > mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"}A:link { COLOR: blue;
>> > TEXT-DECORATION: underline; text-underline: single}SPAN.MsoHyperlink {
>> > COLOR: blue; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; text-underline:
>single}A:visited
>> > { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; text-underline:
>> > single}SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: purple; TEXT-DECORATION:
>> > underline;
>> > > text-underline: single}SPAN.EmailStyle17 { COLOR: windowtext;
>> > FONT-FAMILY: Arial; mso-style-type: personal-compose; mso-style-noshow:
>yes;
>> > mso-ansi-font-size: 10.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.0pt;
>> > mso-ascii-font-family: Arial; mso-hansi-font-family: Arial;
>> > mso-bidi-font-family: Arial}SPAN.SpellE { mso-style-name: ""; mso-spl-e:
>> > yes}SPAN.GramE { mso-style-name: ""; mso-gram-e: yes}DIV.Section1 {
>page:
>> > Section1}I had a set of these a while back and after a great deal of
>> > digging, found multiple
>> > > sources that indicated they flow 22#/hr @ 58PSI. Unfortunately, that
>> > doesn't
>> > > make them particularly useful for even a mild engine buildup.
>> > >
>> > > -Scott
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > From: Brendan Patten
>> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > Sent: Friday, May 20, 2005 6:32 PM
>> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] injector sizes 1998 vortec 454
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > I've got a set of injectors from a 1998 Vortec 454 Chevrolet engine,
>does
>> > anyone have any idea what the flow rate @ psi is?
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ---------------------------------
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ---------------------------------
>> > > Do you Yahoo!?
>> > > Make Yahoo! your home page
>> > > -------------- next part --------------
>> > > An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> > > URL:
>> >
>http://lists.diy-efi.org/pipermail/diy_efi/attachments/20050521/f8f72484/att
>> > achment-0001.htm
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 4
>> > > Date: Sat, 21 May 2005 20:30:31 -0700 (PDT)
>> > > From: "Marcello A. Belloli" <mbelloli at speedymotorsports.com>
>> > > Subject: [Diy_efi] Measuring Pulse Width/Duty Cycle of an Injector?
>> > > To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > Message-ID:
>> > > <11600.202.57.160.158.1116732631.squirrel at www.speedymotorsports.com>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain;charset=iso-8859-1
>> > >
>> > > Hello Everyone,
>> > > I'm still working on a datalogger project. Been doing a lot of
>the
>> > > software while I've been on vacation in Thailand. I'm still on
>> > > vacation, but can't keep my mind off of this project. I'm using a
>> > > PIC18F452 as the Micro behind my datalogger. I've got just about
>> > > everything working. The one place I'm having problem is the
>> > > understanding of how to read pulse width of a fuel injector.
>> > > Is there a way of looking at all types of injectors, that will
>allow
>> > > for an accurate account of timing? I've been looking at two type of
>> > > injector firing. Low resistance injectors, which use a driver that
>> > > duty cycles the injectors after the main firing to keep the current
>> > > within limits. And Higher resistance ones where the resistance alone
>> > > keeps the current down. Now how do you look at firing time of an
>> > > injector when the driver starts to duty cycle it after 1.2ms?
>> > > I guess I have one more question too - What is the best way to
>> > > connect to a circuit like an injector driver output? I figure I only
>> > > really need timing information. I want to keep the voltage between
>> > > 0-5 volts and apply as little load to the circuit as possible.
>> > > After looking at this I can understand why my multimeter that has
>a
>> > > PulseWidth setting has trouble sometimes.
>> > > Any ideas would be great. Thanks, Marcello
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > Message: 5
>> > > Date: Sun, 22 May 2005 00:38:34 -0700
>> > > From: "David Allen" <davida1 at hiwaay.net>
>> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
>> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>> > > Message-ID: <006d01c55ea1$46e22ae0$6c00a8c0 at skyhighspeed.com>
>> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>> > >
>> > > When installing a 700R4 in my 1972 Nova, the crossmember had to be
>moved
>> > > back and the driveshaft shortened. Everything else bolted right up-
>> > > shifter, oil cooler lines, speedometer cable, etc. There was 1/2 inch
>> > > clearance between the trans and the tunnel. But I kept blowing
>o-rings on
>> > > the servo cover on the right side of the transmission. It would
>suddenly
>> > > start pouring oil profusely out of the servo. The o-ring would be all
>> > > chewed up or almost missing. After pulling the transmission twice, I
>> > > finally determined it would push against the tunnel and press in the
>servo
>> > > cover under hard cornering. This would ruin the o-ring! After this,
>the
>> > > Sledge-O-Matic and Jack-O-Matic were brought into play with great
>vigor
>> > and
>> > > little restraint on one particular spot on the trans tunnel. Now there
>is
>> > a
>> > > funny bulge you can feel through the carpet. But no more servo cover
>> > o-ring
>> > > trouble!
>> > > Whatever you do make sure no delicate parts of the transmission will
>hit
>> > > the body when the trans and motor mounts flex. I had 1/2 inch
>clearence
>> > but
>> > > that wasn't enough. There's at least an inch now. And even though
>the
>> > > o-ring is still intact, there's a mark in the undercoating where the
>servo
>> > > cover has lightly hit the body.
>> > > Just my 2 cents worth!
>> > > David
>> > >
>> > > ----- Original Message -----
>> > > From: "Mike V" <diyefi at enzoco.com>
>> > > To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>> > > Sent: Saturday, May 21, 2005 6:16 AM
>> > > Subject: Re: [Diy_efi] swap part questions
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > > At 09:53 PM 5/18/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>> > > >
>> > > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/transmount.jpg
>> > > > >
>> > > > >This is the stock '98 4L60E mount. My tunnel doesn't have quite as
>> > much
>> > > > >room as the pickup did, I'd like to find a mount that's about an
>inch
>> > > > >shorter. I thought a Camaro might have something shorter but it's
>> > > > >completely different, at least in '98. Any suggestions for a
>different
>> > > > >year or model that might put the trans closer to the cross member?
>> > > >
>> > > > Have you already made full use of the trusty sledge-O-matic on the
>trans
>> > > > tunnel?
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > >ftp://diy-efi.org/uploads/sgr/airbox.jpg
>> > > > >
>> > > > >The stock air inlet has some kind of box attached, about 6"x6"x6",
>for
>> > > > >noise reduction? Doesn't fit under the hood, so had to go. Any
>clever
>> > > > >ideas for filling the hole where it connects? A 2" PVC cap almost
>fits
>> > > > >but is just too small.
>> > > >
>> > > > I'm not getting the big picture on the airbox setup.
>> > > > If you can send me some more pics or diagrams, i might have
>> > > > some tubing parts I can send you.
>> > > > Most of my spares are 3 inch I think.
>> > > > MIke V
>> > > >
>> > > > _______________________________________________
>> > > > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > ------------------------------
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
>> > > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > End of Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 8
>> > > *************************************
>> >
>> >
>> > _______________________________________________
>> > Diy_efi mailing list
>> > Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >__________________________________________________________
>> >Pare de esbanjar dinheiro!
>> >Compare o pre?o da sua liga??o ? Internet
>> >http://acesso.portugalmail.pt/maisbarato
>> >_______________________________________________
>> >Diy_efi mailing list
>> >Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>>
>> Regards from
>>
>>
>> Mike Massen
>> Perth, Western Australia
>> VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
>> http://niche.iinet.net.au
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> Diy_efi mailing list
>> Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
>>
>>
>> End of Diy_efi Digest, Vol 3, Issue 13
>> **************************************
>>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Diy_efi mailing list
>Diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>http://lists.diy-efi.org/mailman/listinfo/diy_efi
Regards from
Mike Massen
Perth, Western Australia
VL Commodore Fuse Rail that wont warp or melt !
http://niche.iinet.net.au
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