[Diy_efi] nissan L28 engine

[Tom Visel]

Make sure you do the spark-checking thing before you do the 
fuel-checking thing.  Vapors can travel, as well as remain on your 
hands.  These engines are infamous for having corroded injector and 
cylinder head temp sensor (coolant temp sensor) connectors.  
Fortunately, if you aren't doing a 100-point restoration, just about 
anyone's injector connectors will do as replacements, and if you get a 
replacement coolant temp sensor, it may or may not have the locating lug 
on it that keeps you from using a plain-jane injector connector for it 
also.  If you have corrosion, you will be fighting all sorts of 
driveability symptoms for the rest of its life, so check out those 
connectors.  Get a noid light set ($15-20 buck for a cheap set, and 
they're just fine) to check injector pulse.
HTH,
TomV


Bill - Comcast wrote:

> Hi Ian,
>
> Did you drain the fuel and add fresh?  It will no longer be fuel after 
> 6 years of sitting.  Can you crack the fuel line near the engine 
> somewhere and verify you have fuel pressure?
>
> You can hear the injectors clicking when they fire.  I use a 
> stethoscope and touch the top of each one,  you can isolate a bad one 
> this way.  You should also be able to smell fuel coming out the tail 
> pipe if it's pumping fuel and air but not firing.  You can start it on 
> starting fluid but don't run it long that way.
>
> Pull a plug,  plug it into a wire and leave it laying on top of the 
> engine where you can see it while you crank,  You should be able to 
> see the spark.
>
> hth,
>
> Bill
> '82 928s 5 sp. Vortech/749 (No longer L-Jet)
>
>
> Ian Molton wrote:
>
>> Hey guys.
>>
>> good news on the L28 in my 280Z... it seems to turn freely!
>>
>> the plugs have come out with only a dry powdery carbon coating on 
>> them, they dont look crackedor damaged at all. knowing nothing about 
>> petrol engines I read that this suggests either over rich fuelling, 
>> excessive idling, or the wrong plug type. on the plus side, I guess 
>> it means the engine likely doesnt have any serious oil burning issues...
>>
>> radiator needed 2 litres of water to top it up. no idea how much a 
>> system can lose standing around for 6 years, but it doesnt _appear_ 
>> to be going anywhere nefarious...
>>
>> sprayed in some WD-40 and tried turning it over by hand. I got some 
>> motion without trying too hard (turned the alternator pulley because 
>> the crank is near inaccessible behind that mother of a fan...) so I 
>> let it stand a while and turned over the engine (minus plugs) with 
>> the starter. it seems to turn freely enough and the oil pressure 
>> idiot light goes out (although the guage reads 0). The cranking was 
>> pretty even - no sign of binding.
>>
>> tried reconnecting the plugs and got no start. then I realised that I 
>> couldnt hear the fuel pump when I turned the key. After first setting 
>> off the alarm (didnt realise it worked!) and then disabling the damn 
>> thing, I could hear the fuel pump when the key was turned. however 
>> still no start.
>>
>> What next? I assume I'll need a strobe or something, and is there any 
>> way to monitor an injector (bosch L-jet) to see if they are being fired?
>>
>> can I squirt carb cleaner or something into the air intake to start 
>> it? is it safe to do so?
>>
>> On the plus side, the drivers door I removed seems to be in 
>> reasonable shape - its down to clean metal over much of the outside. 
>> theres some bad pitting, but not much else. the underside of the 
>> inner panel is quite rusted though - but nothing terrible.
>>
>>
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