[Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning

Mike Yates tmc_mike_yates
Fri Oct 13 17:04:53 UTC 2006


Correction the early lightnings had no boost they were NA and the
second, and last generation, of lightnings are MAF sensored.

On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 22:36:22 -0400, you wrote:

>Try turboford.com  Most of those guys run the 2.3 turbo, they run BOOST,
>some still MAP.  How about the early Lightning guys, those motors were MAP
>and had boost?
>
>I haven't really worked with MAP at all since my 1994 Mustang is MAF.
>
>Dan Nicoson
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
>Behalf Of Ben P
>Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:10 PM
>To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>
>yeah i shot him off an email about it. Currently there are no australian
>definition files though. But I am having a look through some 97 luxo barge
>(i think its a lincoln) and the stuff I can do is incredible. Ill have to
>change shift points to take advantage of the turbo torque too... none of
>this 5500rpm change crap...
>
>as long as I can find a replacement map sensor that can reliably read high
>enough, its ok. Any ideas what I could pull one off?
>
>nah, not a serious motor really. the grand plan is 320rwhp from port/polish,
>cam, and boost. A lot higher power has been seen from these motors with that
>amount of work (try 380rwkw on for size. 22psi on C16 though, but all the EL
>wrecker motor had inside was a cam, and a mild port job). But I want some
>kind of reliability and boost below 3000rpm. Car (dead stock) currently has
>136rwhp, with 330,000km worth of wear and no new parts (plugs, leads, oils,
>and filters excepted), 148 with all the intake piping off.
>
>Thanks
>Ben
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Daniel Nicoson" <A6intruder at myo-p.com>
>>Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>>To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>>Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>>Date: Thu, 12 Oct 2006 09:14:09 -0400
>>
>>Most likely that is a sensor limitation.  Within the software you can
>>re-scale the tables to accept a larger range of operation.
>>
>>Why don't you go to the Moates site and pull down Paul Booth's free
>>software.  See if he has your EEC "de-coded".  If yours isn't decoded, find
>>a similar EEC and load up those definition files.  Open it all up and start
>>to get to know how these things work.  Paul does "de-code" different EEC's
>>that are requested all the time.  It might take a few weeks for him to get
>>to it (it's his hobby time too) but usually it gets done.
>>
>>There may be other free software on that web site I'm simply familiar with
>>Paul's software.
>>
>>If you are running in excess of 12 psi you've got a serious motor on your
>>hands.  Tune it well...
>>
>>Dan Nicoson
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
>>Behalf Of Ben P
>>Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 12:52 AM
>>To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>>Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>>
>>yeah. I did hear something about the standard computer being unable to cope
>>with more than about 12psi, no matter how modified. Is that true, or is
>>that
>>just a MAP sensor limitation?
>>
>>and how do you go about changing the calibration of the map sensor on a
>>factory computer when you change it (to one that reads higher)?
>>
>>thanks
>>Ben
>>
>>
>> >From: "Daniel Nicoson" <A6intruder at myo-p.com>
>> >Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >To: <diy_efi at diy-efi.org>
>> >Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>> >Date: Wed, 11 Oct 2006 10:21:01 -0400
>> >
>> >For the price of a MS you could have the Moates equipment and have FULL
>> >control of your EEC-V, no hardware hacks etc.
>> >
>> >You mentioned cost being a significant issue here.  Properly controlling
>> >your tune is easily as important as any other parts you may have bolted
>>on.
>> >Those parts often turn to junk without proper control of operating
>> >parameters.  Don't short sell yourself on proper control of the engine.
>> >
>> >Good luck with the project.
>> >
>> >Dan Nicoson
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org [mailto:diy_efi-bounces at diy-efi.org]On
>> >Behalf Of Ben P
>> >Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2006 7:02 PM
>> >To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> >Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>> >
>> >
>> >no distributor to rotate...
>> >
>> >I should see if I can do that to the cam angle sensor though, as a dizzy
>> >fits into the same hole.
>> >
>> >And I came across an interesting theory on www.fordforums.com.au (the
>> >'400hp
>> >for $5000' thread in the eseries section, my username there is BLSTIC).
>> >Apparently its possible for the megasquirt ecu to use the cam angle
>>sensor
>> >while the ford ecu is also using it. This can lead to full megasquirt
>>spark
>> >control, with the ford computer injecting its usual amount of fuel for
>>non
>> >boosted conditions, and the megasquirt also supplying extra fuel (via
>> >another set of six injectors) under boost conditions only. The only
>>problem
>> >with this approach is that the cam angle sensor signal is too weak for
>>the
>> >ford computer to function properly (as it is also being 'used' by the
>> >megasquirt), leading to fuel injection problems.
>> >
>> >If that were to be done, the only reason I would want the ford computer
>> >still there is to control the dash, auto trans, trip computer, and
>> >diagnostic functions. It also cuts out a lot of mapping.
>> >
>> >thoughts?
>> >Ben
>> >
>> > >From: "Mike" <niche at iinet.net.au>
>> > >Reply-To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >To: diy_efi at diy-efi.org
>> > >Subject: RE: [Diy_efi] EEC-V Tuning
>> > >Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2006 20:47:47 +0800
>> > >
>> > >At 02:07 PM 10/10/06, you wrote:
>> > >
>> > > >Can anyone think of a way to retard the ignition timing on an EECV
>>Car
>> > >(with coil packs, no distributor) under boost only?
>> > >
>> > >You could use the standard mechanical route,
>> > >rig up a diaphragm, such as the type which runs the waste gate, should
>>be
>> > >able to
>> > >get them quite cheap nowadays and use this to rotate the (loosened)
>> > >distributor
>> > >(in the right direction of course), could use a lever arm as well in
>>case
>> > >there isnt
>> > >enough motion, dead simple way to do it, just need to fabricate a
>> >bracket.
>> > >I'd suggest 1.6 to 2mm plate aluminium, easy to cut and drill and if
>>not
>> > >too long quite stable...
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >Regards from
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >Mike Massen
>> > >Network Power Systems
>> > >Lab 08 9444 8961
>> > >Mb 0438 048961
>> > >Perth, Western Australia
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