Traction Control

[Len Sabatine]

   NW9  [ Accleration Slip Regulation ] does use 2 rear wheel speed sensor 
input[s]
as part of calculation scheme for interaction with ABS , BCM , PCM / VCM and
throttle control. For the $150 price tag , GM changes  lots  of hardware 
and code
compared to a Non Traction Control combination. I'm sure If GM could have done
Traction control with a Software only fix , they would have done so , since 
It would
require less hardware. Just what bean counters dig.
   Len
>FWIW:
>
>The chevy venture we bought has traction control - it limits throttle
>travel, and backs it off when you step too hard on the gas. I dont even
>thing it has wheel sensors - its open loop and assumes based on calculations
>when the tires are slipping.  I never really looked at it but it was only a
>$150 option and definetly uses throttle limiter.
>
>I had tried pulling spark to zero at 255 MAP and 1200-1500 rpm in the grand
>prix to take the "thought" out of a drag launch. worked but needed fine
>tuning. as for closed loop traction control - outta my area of interest.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bruce Plecan <nacelp at bright.net>
>To: <gmecm at diy-efi.org>
>Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2000 6:28 PM
>Subject: Re: Traction Control
>
>
> >
> >
> > > I'm considering some firmware techniques to reduce power for winter
> > driving.  Maybe retarding >spark a little or missing an ignition pulse.
>Is
> > anyone doing this kind of stuff?
> >
> > I spent a ton of time on such a deal.
> > Looked for sudden rpm changes.
> > Used Tack input to charge two caps thru two resistors,  feed that to the
> > high and low ends of a 3914.
> > The various output levels were where I would drop cylinders as prime
>number
> > to min loading up one particular cylinder,  ie 1st step would drop 1 in 7
> > cylindr firings, then 1 in 5, then 1in 3.  Rain snow would never get to
> > stage 3.  at 1 in 5 the engine was noticeably missing, and couldn't be
>made
> > to spin a tire.
> >    BTW, tried the MSD multistep and was crazy trying to get enough retard
>to
> > make a reall difference instantly.  The 1 in 7  is like a 20% power cut.
> >
> > If you have abs then just allow for like 8-12ish percent slippage rear to
> > front and run the logic gates for the cut outs, would be what I'd do
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> > > This will be my first winter in the Z,  and I'm a little concerned about
> > getting stuck in the snow.
> > > Bill
> > > Len Sabatine wrote:
> > > > It's easier and less expensive to change the torque converter;
> > > > The production torque converter in F car A4 is very "tight stall "  2x
> > > > torque multiplier. which is no help in slick operating conditions,
> > > >      We normally replace it with a custom built unit , which also
> > removes
> > > > approx 15 lbs off the back of the crank . The
> > > > combination , combined with appropriate tires ,greatly improves
>control
> > and
> > > > traction. ( Worth .3 - .5 off 1/4 mile ticket too )
> >
> > --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
> > To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
> > in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org
> >
> >
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
>in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
To unsubscribe from gmecm, send "unsubscribe gmecm" (without the quotes)
in the body of a message (not the subject) to majordomo at lists.diy-efi.org