NC hybrid setup/coolant blows heater core/how to avoid?

Ross Corrigan zxv at istar.ca
Sat May 1 20:33:45 GMT 1999


At 01:29 PM 5/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>What I do is, epoxy the 5/8" heater hose fitting on the manifold shut, and
>then cure it at 200dF.  Then drill a 5/16" hole in it.  That is enough for
>heat and defrost, here in Ohio. 

so you restricted your supply to your heater to 5/16's internally w/ no
other visible mods...I like that:-)  what kind of epoxy specifically do you
use?

  If you want really good control over the
>heater coolant, use a heater valve off a 87 Buick GN/Ttype, it's vacuum
>applied, On, type.

don't follow this too well, this is an inline valve in the heater supply
line?  vacuum applied but what triggers the application of the vaccuum? an
electric switch?  or do you mean at high vaccuum (low rpm's/throttle) it's
open and it closes under WOT? off of manifold vaccuum?  That would be slick
as well.

>  If when ya do the cam, on the passenger side of the water pump is a hole
>in the water pump/block.  Tap that out and put a 1/8 pipe plug in, it.  Then
>drill a 1/16 or 1/8" hole in it.  Also, a 1/8" hole in the thermostat.

missed this one, better review my coolant circuit schematics in my Haynes
manual, I have hole's in my thermostat , Robert Shaw hiflo unit to
accomodate my stewart water pump setup. Or do you mean bleed off a line
from the thermo/water neck  housing of 1/8" supply for the heater and
return it into the water pump?

>    The above is just what works for me.
>Bruce

Loving these ideas guys!  Can't wait to get my car back from the tranny
guru to start on one of them.

Ross Corrigan  /  Vancouver, Canada 

 '80 327ZX   IZCC#255, Edmonton Z-car Club #44, British Columbia ZCR        
Life's a journey, not a destination.. Enjoy the pitstops and maximize the
straights

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