[Diy_efi] Re: Use 02 sensor on motorcycle?
Sven
svenc at qwest.net
Thu Jun 6 13:02:33 GMT 2002
> That 14.4V is probably the fully charged voltage. If you put a
> heavy load on it (one hour discharge rate) it will start to drop
> almost immediately. However, adding one or 2 cells from a
> second battery might indeed keep the voltage high enough
> to run most of an hour. Don't go overboard on cell count, or
> you'll burn up the heater regulator (plenty of heat sink is a
> good idea). Using a pair of identical batteries in parallel
> will likely help a lot.
Good to know.
> If you are ready to add components, let me suggest
> another approach. Are we talking a rectified but unregulated
> output capable of providing around 40 watts at 14V to
> headlight/tail light?
The service manual indicates a rectifier/regulator combined into one unit.
The load is currently 40 watts on rectified/regulated circuit. The only
interesting specification listed in service manual is "AC regulator
regulated voltage = 13.5-14.5V / 4500rpm". I would like to use this system
at idle which, if I remember was only about 12V. Doesn't that nullify the
following experiment ?
> First check the polarity of the power
> very carefully. Put about a 10,000 ufd capacitor across
> the power and see what kind of voltage you get with the
> lights on. Observe + to + carfully on the power to caps if
> you don't want them to explode. If you are getting 12-15
> volts with the lights on, you should have plenty of power
> for a DIY-WB with the lights off. If the voltage goes up
> quite a bit, you'll need a good WB heat sink, or maybe a
> pre regulator, and don't leave the lights on long. If you
> can't find the caps, I have some around here.
If not, so I understand. Determine polarity. Put a 10k microfarad
capacitor across power. Measure voltage on this circuit with lights on and
capacitor in place ( any particular rpm/range )? I don't understand + to +
?
I appreciate your help Bruce. I wish my understanding of electricity was
better.
Sven
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